Mountain Project: Climbing Devil's Lake

The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs. The area was closed for a number of years, but was reopened in the late 90's.

Getting There

To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4 cars. Park here and cross the road to find a trail cutting into the woods on the east side of the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Old Sandstone:

Chez's Chimney 5.4 Trad, TR

Curving Crack 5.8 Trad, TR

American Beauty Crack 5.8 Trad, TR

Wobbly Dihedral 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Out There 5.9 R TR, 1 pitch

Alligator Wall 5.9+ Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Mammalary Magic 5.10a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Dancing Madly Backwards 5.10b PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch

Tarantula 5.10b Trad, 60 feet

Gargantua 5.10b Trad, TR

Has Been 5.10c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet

Freaky Face 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Baker Street 5.10d TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

The High Life 5.11b TR

Pacific Ocean Wall 5.11d TR

Uberschmidt 5.12a TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Sepsen Wall 5.12a/b Trad, TR

Featured Route For Old Sandstone

Jan Brown on the lower section of Dancing Madly Backwards.

Dancing Madly Backwards 5.10b PG13 WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone

Dancing Madly Backwards is a great route to try if 5.9's are starting to get less challenging. There's good friction on the sandstone, and the wall isn't quite vertical. Start the route below a rather large bulge. Climb up under the bulge and work your way right and up to the left end of the obvious roof. Traverse right under the roof using underclings and foot smearing. Once the roof runs out reach up to find small holds (crux 1). Stand up...[more] Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Old Sandstone

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BETA PHOTO: The first of many classics at the Sandstone.	BETA PHOTO: Some rock past Everleigh Club. I think this one ha...	BETA PHOTO: More rock down the way past Everleigh Club.
BETA PHOTO: More rock past Everleigh Club.

Comments on Old Sandstone

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By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 3, 2003

Mr.Anderson Brown, I am a student at West Virginia University and I am doing a study on regulating rock climbing. I recently was on a search and rescue party to find a missing rock climber at Seneca Rocks, Wv. I was the unfortunate one to find his body. Soon after, the talk of regulation came about. If you could,I would like some opinions of yours and other rock climbers in the country. I am having a hard time finding any info on this touchy subject. Any information would be helpful. Please e-mail me at sgrant@mix.wvu.edu. Thank you for your help.

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 4, 2003

I would suggest talking with someone at the Access Fund about regulations. In my experience in WI, it's either all (Devil's Lake) or nothing (Gibraltar Rock). The Access Fund should have the info you're looking for.

By Rick Mulhern
Mar 31, 2009

Is the "Old Sandstone" area open in 2009?

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Mar 31, 2009

I have not heard of any new closures, and as such I would assume it continues to remain open.

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Old Sandstone

Description

Getting There

The Classics