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Old Sandstone

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Old Sandstone

Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 25, 2002
Administrator: Jay Knower
Views: 6,345 page views

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Description 

The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs. The area was closed for a number of years, but was reopened in the late 90's.


Getting There 

To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4 cars. Park here and cross the road to find a trail cutting into the woods on the east side of the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation.



Featured Route For Old Sandstone
John Knoernschild just above crux move. <br /><br />photo by Angie Olson

Mammalary Magic 5.10a R  WI : Devil's Lake : Old Sandstone
This is the first route that you find to the right (west) of the Old Sandstone area. A nice slab with multiple pebbles embedded on it. Start by climbing straight up in the middle of the slab up to just below the biggest pebble. There are two ways to solve the crux move: one going straight up to the big pebble and the other by moving a little to the left (easier). From big pebble continue straight to the top....[more]


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By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 3, 2003

Mr.Anderson Brown, I am a student at West Virginia University and I am doing a study on regulating rock climbing. I recently was on a search and rescue party to find a missing rock climber at Seneca Rocks, Wv. I was the unfortunate one to find his body. Soon after, the talk of regulation came about. If you could,I would like some opinions of yours and other rock climbers in the country. I am having a hard time finding any info on this touchy subject. Any information would be helpful. Please e-mail me at sgrant@mix.wvu.edu. Thank you for your help.

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 4, 2003

I would suggest talking with someone at the Access Fund about regulations. In my experience in WI, it's either all (Devil's Lake) or nothing (Gibraltar Rock). The Access Fund should have the info you're looking for.