New Sandstone Area

The New Sandstone area is one of the best micro crags in the park. If this were in Britain you would have seen photos of it by now. The stone here is partially metamorphised sandstone which has embedded quartzite pebbles, though not technically quartz conglomerate. It is some of the best sandstone in the country though weak spots are found on several routes.. The routes here are steep and well defined, though short. But what they lack in height is made up for by high quality powerful moves. Though the lines are technical, there is very little pussyfooting involved. It is a beautiful craglet with flat sandy accommodations and a southern aspect.

It is still closed to climbing. That in itself is a long story with many characters. The CMC, DLFA, and the DNR all just couldn't get along. Add one amateur biologist to that mix and we all know the result. A real bummer considering some of the routes here are as good as it gets at the Lake. Sight to EZ's solo of Donkey, and the Fuck Aid battle... It was a good day back in the early eighties when this place was reintroduced to the climbers who were establishing what was to become the golden era routes at Devils Lake.

I got on a line here between donkey and ..chimp. No send, but it was really, really technical and very hard. Anyone know anything about it?

To my knowledge and the old-timers that line hasn't been done. It is infact the infamous "Fuck Aid" line that stirred tensions between the CMC and DLFA so many years ago... I have spent some time on it and all I can say is yes, technical is putting mildly, and yes, very hard. Only one move I couldn't do towards the top just below the last shitty finger jam. One of the last great problems at the lake. Not to mention the gear is not too bad at all...