I took this Photo from the tree along side the rou...
Description
Roger's Roof is a well known climb at Horse Rampart. When approaching Horse Rampart from Birthday Rocks, Roger's Roof is located near the middle of the formation about 50 feet past the top-rope access "gully". To climb this beauty, start to the left of the alcove at the base of the wall. Follow the wedge-shaped rib up to the hand crack in the roof. When you get to the roof, reach above it and jam your palm (you will bleed) into the crack while keeping your feet high on the face below the roof. When your hand is sufficiently jammed, swing your left foot above the roof and propel yourself onto the face above. Follow the crack to the top.
To lead RR take #5 stopper, behind flake part way up arete, but B4 fixed LA, then 2 x .75 Camalot or 1.5 tricam at roof whatever works. Equalize these if you want. Then #2 Camalot then #3 Camalot, both above roof, run to top. Totally casual, anchor at trees or with small tri-cams and a brassy in cracks at top. Great lead
I didn't mean to, but I thought you told me at Conway's one night (after several pitchers of Optimator) that you have already led it while naked (hands untaped too) and blindfolded. I think you were even talking about a nude solo w/ a photo shoot so you could get the best two "Cracks" at the lake in Climbing Mag next time they do an article on the Lake.
I happened to be in Madison for a math meeting last weekend and ventured up to Devils Lake with a few other old geezers (Pete Cleveland, Olle & Sue Swartling, Al Czecholinski, Dave Erickson, John Rowe), as well as a youngster (Alex) who could climb hard stuff effortlessly. I thought it would be neat to lead the roof 40 years after the first ascent. It went fine, though I was a bit slow figuring out where to place gear on the thin stuff below the roof. The roof was still pretty hard for a guy who has never done a chinup, but three tries (no falls) sufficed. I am sitting in my office now looking fondly at the nascent scab on the back of my left hand. Incidentally, on the first ascent Paul Stettner Jr. led the thin part up to the roof and then lowered off from a home-made RURP placed above the roof. I had a bong on my rack and was therefore able to lead the roof safely. Paul certainly led the scariest part.
I'm curious about the 'place palm at the top of the crack' and bleed beta? I climbed this last month and used a fist jam lower down in the crack to surmount the roof. Also possible, though a little harder, to layback over the roof using foot holds off to the right.
The stick your hand in crack & bleed beta is not true unless your jams slip – then it might be possible to tear some skin – depends on slippage. The roof has a perfect ring lock that will allow you to reach a little higher for that perfect hand jam and then reach for the second perfect hand jam, put toe in crack (easier than using the face me-thinks) and surmount the roof, cruiser to the top. Fun, great lead!
By Paul Huebner From: Portage, WI Aug 12, 2007 rating: 5.8
What I remember from this climb is the bone in my left hand hurt for 2 weeks afterwards. No bleeding though. Key seemed to be to get your right foot out on the rock face just above the lip of the roof. Once you stand up it's just a real pretty jam crack to the top.
Horse Rampart
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