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Doorway Rocks - Major Mass
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Hammer Crack 

5.9

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Views: 180 page views

Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 4, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: Sunken Slab (42), Prosperity (43), Hammer Crack (4...


Description 

Hammer Crack is a tough line located on the easternmost wall of the Major Mass. Climb up the obvious crack using finger jams and feet on the face. The first 10 feet is the crux, where the crack is slightly overhanging. Swartling's book calls this 5.8, but I think it's at least 5.9. An easier variation is to climb up the inside corner to the right of the crack onto a ledge. Traverse back to the left on this ledge and climb the crack. Finish by exiting the crack at the large ledge (the North Platform). Be careful of loose rocks on the North Platform.


Protection 

Medium stoppers for lead. For Top Rope, head up the gully between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. About 20 yards from the top of the gully cut left (west) through a small "saddle" and onto the upper band ledge. In Swartling's book look at diagram 33E on page 141. After passing through the "saddle" you will be standing right on the word "Access" near the center of the page. From here head south along the west side of a small rock band and onto a point (on the book topo, walk from the word "Access" to the word "Keyhole". Hang your top rope anchor off the point so it falls to the left (northeast) of a small pine tree growing out of the rock.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
Apr 11, 2002

Some would call Hammer Crack a 5.8.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 25, 2005

hammercase is cool,5.11 ,think old prunes lead it.

By Ian Schmit
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.8

Crux is right off the ground. Eases back to 5.6 handcrack in the upper section.