BETA PHOTO: Mongo Fury takes the arete and crack just left of ...
Description
Sweet and very fun 30 feet of climbing positive but intense vertical to overhanging arete (and crack just right of arete) up into rest and big horizontals then final steep exit crack and edges. Crux is at mid height moving off positive horizontal hand match to pull on small side pull above to get into large jugs/ledges and protruding flake rest.
Location
Next buttress back from and right of the "No Sweat" overhang route which is the first major climbable rock formation one comes to when walking up CCC trail from the East Bluff car park.
Protection
Good to excellent small to medium wires and cams. There is a good placement about every 3 feet on this making it quite safe to lead. It is just very strenuous to place the gear needed at crux because it's above your head and above the nice positive horizontal hand match.
Thanks Jay. I will post a few pictures as well soon. It is a very good lead I agree. The rock is really nice. Very good, hard, and satisfying climbing I think. I never knew this thing existed until you mentioned it a while back. I have been looking up at it ever since while walking by. I really like the 5.7/5.8ish thing around the corner to the left too. It is not named in the guidebook other then a number but it is well worth an onsight lead attempt I think.. Short as well but super fun and has nice textured rock plus just enough good gear placements.
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