Grand Inquisitor 

FA:  ???? Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.7 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 140 feet Season:  Spring, Summer, Fall, Sunny warm winter days Views: 257 page views Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Apr 21, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Jerry W. leads the Grand Inquisitor at Devil's Lak...

Description 

Route starts down at lowest point of Bill's Buttress at buttress prow between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left. The starting moves are unprotected and perhaps a bit hard for the grade and folks usually step into the climb via crack and mantle move from the right a bit. Climb thin crack from said ledge that has both slopey as well as angular footholds around it to a horizontal hold at point of base of loose block. Get good pro with long runners and launch into left traverse via good holds for both feet and hands into the crux of the route where one is forced into a pretty much singular answer crux move. Stay calm and place the obvious wired nut gear placement and tug for the jugs above. Stellar steep climbing through this section and no give away for the grade. Follow featured ledges and cracks on face above and climb up into steep groove/crack above and exit onto upper ledges and blocks. Stay climbing on the prow proper at top to help reduce rope drag.
This is a nice long varied route and make sure to use long long runners all along the route to help reduce rope drag.

Location 

Bill's Buttress between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left.

Protection 

All types and sorts but intense on small wires in first 30 feet or so. The first 15 feet are unprotected unless climber traverses in from right as mentioned above.