This is a great climb. It's rated F9 in the old book, 5.8 in the newer older guidebook and 5.8+ in the Falcon guide. At 5.8 it's probably a sandbag.
The crux for me was getting to a rest with your feet just above the triagle alcove 30ft up.
Near the top there is a roof thing that provides awesome jams and great position.
All in all, a great climb.
By Jay Knower Administrator Jun 14, 2006 rating: 5.9 PG13
HB offsets work very well, and may take some of the sting out of the climb. I got an average-looking #1 Camalot in the niche. It may have held a fall, though I was fortunate enough not to test it.
By Jay Knower Administrator Oct 12, 2006 rating: 5.9 PG13
From "The Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake" (1970): "If you see a leader on this route, he will not fall, that is, he must not fall. The quality of the protection is unspeakably poor."
By Paul Huebner From: Portage, WI Aug 18, 2007 rating: 5.9 R
I've only climbed Chicago once and on TP, but I watched a 57-year old Professor from UW-Madison lead it back in about 1988, while his student/girl friend looked on with me at the base in awe. It was kind of like when I watched Pete Cleveland in 97 or 98 go up the End (5.10?) barefoot with amazing grace and wearing a swami-belt for a harness.
Brinton's Buttress
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