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Bill's Buttress
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Breakfast of Champions 
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Breakfast of Champions 

5.9+

   

FA: ??
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Season: Dry and warm times of year
Views: 290 page views

Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Apr 19, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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JW leading "Breakfast of Champions" and JJ belays....


Description 

Crack route around corner to right of Cheetah route. Very nice pure crack route for bottom half. Top half climbs through sustained and steep wall/corner/roof. Crux through wide section and small overhang in middle section.
One can side step the crux of the middle section to the left but the crux section should not be missed.


Location 

Left side of large dark corner chimney that makes up the right side of Bill's Buttress. Around the corner to the right of route "Cheetah".


Protection 

Excellent all sizes and types of gear. Wider cam or hex to protect the brief wide crux section.



Add Comment Comments on Breakfast of Champions
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
Apr 19, 2007

I think I might like this route a lot more now that it's rated 5.9+. The 5.8 rating always seemed like an insult.

By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Apr 20, 2007

Yes Jay. I agree. Always have been thinking BOC is another one of those famously under rated routes at DL. And especially if folks stay on route through the wide section and roof it is a tough one for a 5.8. Harder then other 5.8's at the East Bluff?