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Bill's Buttress
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Breakfast of Champions 
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Breakfast of Champions 

5.9+

   

FA: ??
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Season: Dry and warm times of year
Views: 792 page views

Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Apr 19, 2007


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JW leading "Breakfast of Champions" and JJ belays....


Description 

Crack route around corner to right of Cheetah route. Very nice pure crack route for bottom half. Top half climbs through sustained and steep wall/corner/roof. Crux through wide section and small overhang in middle section.
One can side step the crux of the middle section to the left but the crux section should not be missed.


Location 

Left side of large dark corner chimney that makes up the right side of Bill's Buttress. Around the corner to the right of route "Cheetah".


Protection 

Excellent all sizes and types of gear. Wider cam or hex to protect the brief wide crux section.



Photos of Breakfast of Champions Slideshow Add Photo
John K. leading Breakfast of Champions Direct<br /><br />Photo by: Michael Lohre

John K. leading Breakfast of Champions Direct

Pho...

One last chalkin' before the finish<br /><br />Photo by: Michael Lohre

One last chalkin' before the finish

Photo by: Mic...

Just a few moves to go<br /><br />Photo by: Michael Lohre

Just a few moves to go

Photo by: Michael Lohre


Comments on Breakfast of Champions Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 19, 2007

I think I might like this route a lot more now that it's rated 5.9+. The 5.8 rating always seemed like an insult.

By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Apr 20, 2007

Yes Jay. I agree. Always have been thinking BOC is another one of those famously under rated routes at DL. And especially if folks stay on route through the wide section and roof it is a tough one for a 5.8. Harder then other 5.8's at the East Bluff?

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 5, 2009
rating: 5.10a

I would say this route is a 5.10a

4-stars for sure. Great movement. A bit runout after the roof.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 10, 2009
rating: 5.9

This is a really fun route and a great lead.

By Mike Lohre
From: Sauk City, WI
Jul 15, 2009
rating: 5.8

Loved this route. Great movement. I think the crux is forearm diameter dependent though. I used a very comfortable forearm jam that got me through the crux making if feel like a Lake 5.8

By Amanda Froeming
From: milwaukee, wi
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.8

I would say this is a 5.8. It probably feels harder if you aren't comfortable jamming and try to layback though. Very Fun!

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a

I just found out from Rhoads that I did this wrong. I stepped out right after the crack and continued through "no gear" territory until I reached the top of the giant flake. Apparently you are actually supposed to step out left after the crack. That would be the reason for me giving it a 5.10a grade.

So now....

Breakfast of Champions Direct 5.10a - Step out right after the crack, surmount the overhang, continue on slopers and crimps to top of large flake. Finishes from here the same as original route.