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Pseudo Hawk's Nest
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Phlogiston 

5.12d R

   

FA: Pete Cleveland
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.12d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 374 page views

Submitted By: David A Groth on Apr 11, 2007


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Dave Groth on lead


Description 

Another hard DL eliminate, Good climbing just left of Bagatelle. Do the boulder problem between bagatelle & the arete, then climb to the bagatelle rest continuing up straight to finish left of bagatelle


Location 

Pseudo Hawks nest


Protection 

Bad gear, small RPs some blades. Best done as a TR.



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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 13, 2007

Yo Dave,Thats a killer photo of you leading Phlogiston! Awesome send!
When was that?Is this the hardest dl trad line that has been led?
Peace and Fuk-nes Steve S.

By JasonH
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 22, 2007

Hey Steve. As far as scary and hard I would guess Phlogiston is the hardest lead at the Lake. But, as far as technical difficulty it is probably Zsiechies(sp?) Roof, 13b, which is essentially a direct start to D'Arcy's Wall. Shaking Hands With a Chimp, 13a, at New Sandstone has also been led. I heard rumor that Modern Art may have also been led (I could be wrong about this). It's 13a and essentially a direct finish to Welfare Line (FA EZ?). This is what I've heard, most likely others have better info.

By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Apr 26, 2007

Steve
I never did get the route clean! I fell about 3 feet from the top, I got in a good stopper & peeled. It is a long and good story.

During the assent a very verbal and almost violent fight broke out. An unnamed Madison climbing started ranting about ethics. Rich Bechler had to remove him from the base of the route. Meanwhile I was off the rest stance on really shitty gear trying to concentrate with all this shit going on at the base of the route. As soon as I got in some good gear I just lost it and fell.
I never when back up on lead. I realized the pinch block I put the wires and copper head in is pretty hollow and did not want to risk it.

that's my story! The short version of coarse.

I thought the photo was worth putting up! There are way to many TR photos on MP.
Dave Groth

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 29, 2007

YO Dave G, That is a good story.Just what were you guys doing to arouse the ire of our young ethics policepunter from madison.
Using chalk,sticky rubber,camming devices,head pointing,or heaven forbid...drugs and alchol??? OR did one of you clowns steal his girl friend? OR were you clowns just climbing better then the poor punter?
And pray tell what was the lads name?

By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
May 5, 2007

The fight started over the controversial use pins on DL leads. I drove 2 blades in the horizontal at the rest. Same gear as bagatelle.
As far as his name I think I will let sleeping dogs lay.

I think the real RAD lead yet to be done is cheap thrills!

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 6, 2007

Dave G, I am pretty sure our young pull-down artist Jason H. recently led CHEAP THRILLS....as well as Peyote Blues.
What about N.W. Face of Ceasarian Tower as a rad lead???
peace and fuk-nes