Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Show routes:
Select route...
Balcony, The 
Cerebration 
Cliff's Coitus 
Double Overhang 
Eave of Destruction 
False Alarm Jam 
Foreplay 
Green Bulge 
Hirsute 
Laundry Chute 
New Light Waves 
Orgasm 
Orgasm Direct 
Resolution 
Resurrection 
Second Balcony 
Second Coming 

Foreplay 

5.5

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Views: 619 page views

Submitted By: Andrew Wied on May 7, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Jason Willis near the top of the crack on Foreplay...


Description 

Route begins just west of Orgasm. Climb the crack up and around the pine tree to a small ledge. Route ends just above the ceiling of Orgasm.


Protection 

Used toprope.



Add Photo Photos of Foreplay
Foreplay and Orgasm

BETA PHOTO: Foreplay and Orgasm


Add Comment Comments on Foreplay
Show which comments
By Jeff H
Jun 14, 2002

This is a nice lead with very solid pro.

By Michael Del Gaudio
Aug 12, 2002

I agree with the three star rating this site gave this climb. Some of the guide books rate it at only one star. Many of the moves require technique, and I find that enjoyable. Also, there are lots of places to set pro. These two things are why I think this rout defiantly has a three star climb

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2002
rating: 5.5



This goes a lot easier than False Alarm Jam.

By Cory Bartholomew
From: Östersund, Sweden
Dec 4, 2002

Awesome beginner's lead route. Gobbles up pro. Definitely softer rating than alot of the 5.6's in the neighborhood

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 26, 2004

Excellent Climb. Definately makes a good lead with solid pro. The lower crux can be nicely protected with a small/medium stopper. The last few moves feel slightly exposed but are on great holds. -Amos

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Jan 17, 2007
rating: 5.5

5.5 by Devil's Lake standards. Compared to Brinton's this is cake, not to mention it's Disneyland safe. Still's it's a classic and not to be missed.

By Andy Bissell
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.5

I think the route deserves the 5.6 rating, while the pro is stellar, there are a few areas where a fall would not be such a good thing. I'm thinking of the 2-4 moves above the tree in the crack. Falling through this section, while you're on solid pro, you pretty much guarantee that you're going to hit the tree in some way shape or form. For the novice leader ( I include myself in this ) its a bit of a head check, and makes the route that much more enjoyable.

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.5

Andy,

While your statement about the moves past the tree providing a headcheck is certainly true, it does not have an effect on the difficulty rating. By difficulty this route is significantly easier than Brinton's, Push-Mi Pull-U, False Perspective, and Full Stop all of which are probably benchmark 5.6 at DL (however if someone wanted to call Brinton's 5.7 I might not argue with them).

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Apr 24, 2007
rating: 5.5

Foreplay is 5.5 compared to other similar routes at DL. I think it is much easier than The Bone.

By Andy Bissell
Apr 25, 2007
rating: 5.5

James/Jay,

In retrospect, I concur, the potential fall above the tree does not make the route harder. This was my first lead 2 weekends ago(not counting the 5.2 SW corner of Leaning Tower which I lead 20 mins before this route) and it was really a great time. I plan to lead Full Stop when I'm at the Lake next and really look for the differences in the crux moves. I've never been up Push-Mi Pull-U, False Perspective or Brinton's (this route is always plugged). I've done Full Stop a few times and I can think of a couple moves that are harder than Foreplay. You guys are right, it is 5.5, I just can't help but remember the first time I thruchted my way to the top of this route and thought it was super hard. The exposure on the last two moves is not to be missed!