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Brinton's Buttress
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Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) 
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Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) 

5.10a

   

FA: Before Chiaroscuro
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Views: 210 page views

Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 4, 2006


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Description 

The H links the cruxes of both Chiaroscuro and Brinton's Direct.

Start on Chiaroscuro and climb up the steep, thin wall, past the undercling crux to the point where the Brinton's traverse cuts across the wall. From here, move left (effectively reversing the traverse) to the rectangular niche. It is possible to find an average rest here.

Now, launch into the upper crux of Brinton's Direct. The climbing here is quite pumpy and tricky, and with the pump gained from the lower climbing, certainly feels 5.10.

This link up is quite sustained and is the hardest way up this face.


Protection 

None on Chiaroscuro. The Brinton's Direct part protects fairly well.



Add Comment Comments on Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H)
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By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.10a

This is a great linkup...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Dec 4, 2006

Will this route complete your pyramid James?

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.10a

Not really the pyramid is pretty full in that area, but I appreciate the thought...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Dec 4, 2006

Yeah, I suppose you have that grade pretty much covered

By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Apr 16, 2007

Originally know as "The H" (F9B), according to Smith and Zimmerman. It apparently predates Chiaroscuro?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Apr 16, 2007

Doug, thanks for the clarification. From The Climbers and Hikers Guide (1970):

"The H F9B. The Highlight of your career or your ultimate horror. Start to the right of Brinton's Crack up to Hilton Ledge then left to Brinton's Direct."

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Apr 17, 2007
rating: 5.10a

That's some good history...