Michael's Project 

This has to be the worst 5.7 at the Lake. Awkward, just plain horrible. Go ahead try it, you'll see.

I climbed Michaels once and vowed never to do it again.

This is an excellent climbing despite the priors comments. The start is somewhat strange because of the transition from the inside corner to the right. After this the climb is nice crack climbing with bomber pro (pro is bomber from the beginning). To protect the transition from the crack to the right use a medium size stoppers (BD # 6-7). Once on the right use cams, nut and hexes up to 2". Hexes (BD # 4-10) and big size nuts (BD # 10-13) are better choice than cams if you are comfortable leading with them.

I agree with those who said it was a less than stellar route. I see no reason to do this one again with so many other quality 5.7s at the Lake.

Micheal's is a hard 5.7. Perhaps easy 5.8. The move where you make the transition is the crux but has good pro. Weird reach over the right shoulder type of thing and then when you get the huge ledge thing with the hands a twist of the body follows and then a hefty hoist up for the grade cause the feet have to follow and the footholds just ain't around to make it at all easily easy. I think it is a good route for Devil's Lake. Good pro all the way and steep but with a multitude of rests. If you really want a fun protectable time but at a notch or two harder stay just in the corner and finger lock the strange sized flaring crack past the transition move that it is the normal route. Forget the name of it but it is a strange and challenging climb. Don't deny yourself a true DL experience and try it.

I also hated this route...

Lovely climb after rain or on a hot, sweaty August afternoon. That's what makes you hate this climb and never want to come back. That slimy wet awkward crack at the start. Never again.

I led this route 4-5 years ago, and said to myself, "Never again." much like many of the people commenting earlier. However, I returned to it this fall and found it to be exceptional and well protected. Pulling out onto the corner makes one feel like a hero. The start is awkward and insecure, but once you commit to it the route improves significantly.

A terrible route. Do not be fooled by its nice appearance. You will struggle on this climb, and you too will vow to never, never do this route again.

I too vowed never to even so much as look in the general direction of Michael's after an initial flail fest on it some time ago. But we dropped a rope on Callipigeanous Direct a couple of weeks ago...I dunno, some might use the word beckoning here.

As I lowered, the vortex that is Michael's project (coupled with a slightly bad choice of anchor positioning) sucked me right into it and I had a look on the way down. "Seems like fun." So I went back on my word to never ever touch it again and gave it a run on TR.

While fighting through the first section using such advanced DL techniques as "head jams," "shoulder scumming," "neck bars," and my personal favorite "the desparate toe smear," I began to swear off the route again. Especially when I realized that for all my grunting I was only 6 feet up. But I kept at it and eventually, I reached way out and latched onto that face jug. Then it was just stupid fun to the top.

In the sense that the first 15 feet or so is a trial by fire and the remaining length of the route is pleasant, this seems to me a lot like a clean cut version of Bucket Brigade (more direct line, no guano).

You get an intro section to warm you up to the wonders one of my favorite types of DL climbing--greasy, polished, flared cracks in a horribly akward inside corner. Then you get to enjoy a nice combination of big face holds and solid hand cracks. You can even squeeze chimney it up top if you like that sort of thing. Come on! This thing is classic!

Thusly and hereby, I nominate Michael's project as the perfect climb for anyone's special "first time at Devil's Lake." I know of none other that offers so much to the climber and asks only for their dignity, some primal climbing, and an obligatory muscle spasm in return.

I'm not saying you should climb it repeatedly yourself. But you should definitely suggest it to your friends as a "good starter."

I wholeheartedly agree with you on this one Jesse. An uber-classic "first" route at the lake. Something to the effect of, "I know this super-classic 5.7 just around the corner, and you just have to lead it!"

This is a great route for such purposes...

I can't believe you guys. You would actually recommend that piece of garbage? These new climbers you speak of may never come back to the Lake.

If you really want to "introduce" new climbers to the Lake, then why don't you tell them to go straight up Kamikazee? Or would that be too mean even for the likes of you?

I posted a Michael's Project thread under the forums for further discussion.

I wish I could give Michael's two bombs.

Like I said Jay - Michael's is not a bomb, it is the bomb!!!!

I love this route! It's one of the ten best 5.7 leads at the Lake!

There are more bomber places for gear than you could possibly use, and your reward for climbing with confidence and keeping your face out of the crack is that the crux (the first 15-18 feet) isn't awkward. On the other hand, if you don't lean back, or you try to get in a lot of gear low ....