Imagine climbing Sometimes Direct without having to deal with that pesky crack. Imagine Sometimes Left Side.
Start as for Sometimes and surmount the pillar. Here the wall steepens, and you have the choice moving right into Sometimes Crack, or moving left onto the steep face.
To start the Left Side, gain a sloping ledge and launch into the crux of the route. Expect powerful moves off crimps and sidepuls, culminating with a lunge to the prominent horizontal break. Smile to yourself after you stick the lunge, since you just dispensed with the V3 crux move.
You are not out of the woods yet, as you still must negotiate the Sometimes Direct crux. Ignore the pump, because you have the Direct crux wired anyway. You had better have the crux wired, you poor, pumped, sketching climber, or you are in for a tough fight.
Pedestal Buttress
RSS Feed
