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The Dog 

5.12a

   

FA: First Lead: Jason Huston, 2006
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 444 page views

Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 10, 2005


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Rhoads worked on this all day long and on his 4th ...


Description 

Are you planning a trip to Jackson Falls, or maybe to The Red? If so, you could do no better than to climb "The Dog" beforehand.

An overhanging arete unique to the Lake, "The Dog" feels like a sport route. Expect powerful, steep moves instead of the typical thin, crypto-technical moves found on many of DL's 5.12's. If you want to get strong, then look no further than "The Dog." If you want to get uber-strong, then start by doing laps on "The Dog."

To locate "The Dog," first locate The End. Start on The End's starting holds, but traverse right, eventually weaving an "S" path back left to the arete. From here, follow the steep arete to the top.

What, you have reached the top with nary a razor crimp encountered? That, my friend, is the joy of "The Dog."


Protection 

Toprope.



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By Jeremy Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 27, 2006

This was once an arcane Cleveland TR ignored by the masses until Dave G and Rich B breathed life back into it around the middle eighties. As the story goes, Rich came down from firing it and said, "we will simply refer to this one as the Dog F..ker." Ahh, the good ole days of few sensitivities. A very fun line if you don't mind eliminates, and like Jay said, it is a very non-archetypal 12 at the lake.

By JasonH
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 9, 2006

This route has been led.

Bring a black Alien, a blue Alien, a small stopper, and a blue TCU. A crash pad and a belayer who is willing to jump off a boulder/run down the hill to keep your arse off the ground is nice too--this of course requires the black Alien to hold. Regardless, there is a significant amount of hard climbing with groundfall guaranteed should one blow it.

Very X-citing!

By Jeremy Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 10, 2006

Jason,

When??? Good work...

By JasonH
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 11, 2006

Saturday, Dec 9th. Really a nice day at the Lake; sunny, fairly warm, and not another climbing group anywhere. If it was anywhere other than the Lake, friction probably would have been really good...