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Black Rib 

5.11a

   

FA: first lead pete cleveland
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Views: 207 page views

Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 23, 2003


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Description 

This is yer typical DL type climb thin etc. It has been soloed etc. Also next to it is Black Fetus 5.11, another inbetween kinda deal.


Protection 

Is there any? Probably more of a solo



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By Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
Aug 29, 2005

5.11a ? This was my first F10a back in '72.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Aug 29, 2005

dave, F10a is the equivlent of 5.11a. the f scale and the yosemite decimal are 2 different systems.

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Oct 18, 2006
rating: 5.11a

This felt harder than 5.11a to me. I found it harder than ABM(5.11a/b), Thouroughfare (5.11a) and Beginner's Demise (5.11a).

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2006
rating: 5.11a

The comments above are funny because when I saw the 11a designation I chucked about how my partner, a local, sandbagged me into this and Flatus few other climbs "they are only 10a!" he insisted...
I bought it for a while that I was just not dialed in to the local rock and was spooked by the lack of friction.
But after he got me to do Flatus 3D (Flatus Triple Direct) saying it was only 10b then finally Cesarean Direct at "10c", (I finished only after a hang with bloody fingers) I seized the book and noted that the scale ended at "F10c." So much for that. I understand that those are 12's now?
Regardless of the read grade, Black Rib is of the nicest thin climbs at Devil's Lake and one of the few I remember by name a decade and a half later. Take your edging shoes and get ready to crimp!

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Mar 2, 2007
rating: 5.11b

Yeah Tony, Bagatelle, formerly F10c is now 5.12c/d. Talk about grade inflation...

As for Black Rib, it's a 5.11 with a 12a move on it, in classic Devil's Lake tradition.