There are two different ways to conquer the crux on this one. If you have the momentum going up into it, use it. If you are really good at crimping, there is a very small one you could use that's in the area near the right hand if you're coming up from the left.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Aug 25, 2008
The hold in question has been loose for years. It may still go soon, but this is not new info.
"X" rated lead , I got in more than two pieces but they were all pretty sketchy. I did the direct, avoiding the block, I thought that was always normal route but Sven says otherwise. A #1 Ballnut behind the horn at the lower crux, helped ease the nerves in that little awkward section. Then a decent micro cam, two Astro nuts in a shallow pocket, two more ball nuts up higher, one behind a hollow block. Sven says "One last lead at Devil's Lake?" Too bad he was wrong.
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