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Pedestal Buttress
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The End 

5.10a

   

FA: first lead is either tommy deutchler or scott stewart depending on who ya ask
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Views: 655 page views

Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 23, 2003


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Sticking the crux move on The End. September '08. ...


Description 

this route is well worth doing whether ya lead it or toprope it.far left side of sometimes formation ,by the chimney off the block or direct start


Protection 

usual dl stuff may be scary



Photos of The End Slideshow Add Photo
The End. Moves above the crux with all placements visible below. Photo by Isaiah@ de Therneau.

The End. Moves above the crux with all placements ...


Comments on The End Add Comment
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By supercheetah
Aug 25, 2005

There are two different ways to conquer the crux on this one. If you have the momentum going up into it, use it. If you are really good at crimping, there is a very small one you could use that's in the area near the right hand if you're coming up from the left.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 25, 2008

The hold in question has been loose for years. It may still go soon, but this is not new info.

By richard bechler
Sep 23, 2008

The hold has benn loose since the first time I climbed the end. Which was 30+ years ago.

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Oct 12, 2008
rating: 5.10b R

A hard lead with scant pro. I only placed two pieces, the smallest ultra light nut and a mediocre blue alien.

By Nick Rhoads
Aug 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a X

"X" rated lead , I got in more than two pieces but they were all pretty sketchy. I did the direct, avoiding the block, I thought that was always normal route but Sven says otherwise.
A #1 Ballnut behind the horn at the lower crux, helped ease the nerves in that little awkward section. Then a decent micro cam, two Astro nuts in a shallow pocket, two more ball nuts up higher, one behind a hollow block.
Sven says "One last lead at Devil's Lake?" Too bad he was wrong.