Ted's about halfway up direct. i'm on the bluff on...
Description
Yet another classic DL lead. Climb to the right of Orgasm. I seem to remember pretty good gear and a fixed pin (pin is gone now). Good luck and pull down, cut loose and throw up !@##
It was a purple Metolious that saved my a$$ (especially since the piece below it got yanked out) when I took a fall on my first attempt. Stuck straight into a pin scar I think....
I really enjoyed this route on TR, though it wore the hell out of my fingers. Really there are 2 main problems 1) the early couple of moves, which aren't particularly difficult but because of the sharpness of the crimp are pretty unpleasent 2) the very thin crack climb at the crux of the route - this felt like a gym climb to me, from the very precise sequence that I needed to follow (maybe a stronger climber can improvise but I needed to get every move right) to the very scant, but very important, footholds.
Once you get past the crux it's suddenly a 5.7 climb. I'd really recommend this route to anyone climbing in this range. Way over my head for trad so I can't comment on gear placement but it looked pretty sketchy
Rainy Wednesday Tower
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