This awesome route lies to the right of Congratulations Crack. Involves typical Devil's Lake trickery including heel toe, gastons, and serious pulling down.
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Mar 20, 2005 rating: 5.12b
this is a classic hard lead.the gear is good.i seem to remember lots of r.p.s and small wires,some in opposition.tommy really opened our eyes as to what was possible when he lead this.this was one of my favorite leads at d.l.(even lead it on acid) will submit a picture of tommy,s lead soon
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Mar 21, 2005 rating: 5.12b
I remember when Tommy led this it really opened our eyes as to what was possible.He showed us the "way"...we were on our way to a life of sleazery.
By Jeremy Schlick From: Flagstaff, AZ Sep 23, 2006 rating: 5.12b/c
Boy, I have a light rep. as being a sandbag, but there is no way this thing is 12a. Calling it 12b/c begins to dust away a little bit of the sand though I would give it a solid, bouldery, 12c. Maybe its just not a tall guy route, or I just pick the slimey days to get on it...
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Dec 6, 2006 rating: 5.12b/c
After TRing this a bunch of times, and some inauspicious lead attempts, this climb still haunts me. I worry about the piece protecting that last move to the Pedestal belay ledge. This move has always felt desperate, and there is just one piece, a brass offset, between you and the ground. If this piece holds, it's PG, if not, I'd say it's probably X.
Does anyone know more about this piece? Has anyone fallen on it?
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Dec 7, 2006 rating: 5.12b
Jay,I know the piece you speak of well. For us it was some sort of rp.I led All The Way a number of times but never fell.One time though I remember knocking it out with my hand as I went past it.Kinda scary.
By Jeremy Schlick From: Flagstaff, AZ Dec 18, 2006 rating: 5.12b/c
Dave Groth told me he slipped last year on that move and the piece is fine. I didn't try it on lead last fall, but that piece looks really good. The new wild country superlight nuts may fit really well here. They kind of go where no nut has gone before.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jul 3, 2009 rating: 5.12b/c
I led this cleanly last night. I'm pretty happy given my history on this route (see comment from 2006 above). For the sketchy piece before the pedestel, I placed a #4 BD stopper. I don't know what I was thinking trying an offset there years ago. The stopper looked pretty good, though I'm glad I didn't have to test it.
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