So heres how my interest came to be for this route:
Magic Ed had a thing for this climb saying how he always wanted to lead it but was intimidated. We did it on top rope, being that I'm fairly tall I had no problems with the route, in fact I couldn't see why he had a problem with it.
So just to work My buddy up I let him know that I was gonna do it...Wooo Hooo this got him goin' but still not on the route. So anyway it was time to pony up.
During my lead I actually slipped before getting my gear in whew.......But held on got the gear and the lead. This climb lead to a flurry of 5.10 leads that afternoon
One of my finest days at the lake
Oh & Magic Ed.......Climbed the route, like a kid on a quarter Horse ride at the market 2 weeks later
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Protection
Pro on the lower third on the route does not exsist. The first pro is at the Crux, where a small nut fits in very nicely to give you some peace of mind during the layback.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 22, 2003
I agree that there is no AO on the route (unless you lead it and pull on gear through the crux--efficient but lacking in style points). The crux move, though is definately 5.11a. Maybe 5.10d. Certainly not 5.10a like the header states. I led this climb last summer, and the crux could not be better protected ( a bomber stopper and a Lowe Ball). The start however is serious, and akin to soloing 5.9. All in all, this climb is a great bold lead, and great mental training for leading some of the other bold harder leads in the park (Callipigeanous Direct, Son of Great Chimney, Orgasm Direct, etc).
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