Full Moon Over Baraboo is a very nice jam crack climb near Chicken Delight (rt 182). Climb up easy terrain toward an ominous overhanging bulge at about 50 ft. The closer you get, the bigger it looks. Once at the overhang, reach up and sink your hands into the finest jams at the Lake. If you can dial in the jams you'll have no problem getting past the crux. The rock directly above the overhang is slopey and crimpy and will present a challenge as well.
Protection
Some medium nuts or camalots to get past the roof.
Regarding route description of "Full Moon over Baraboo":It is my opinion that the route does not go right and does not use the jam crack. It was my impression that the true "Full Moon over Baraboo" goes more directly over the roof and perhaps just a tich left, of courese not using holds on "Hero's Fright 5.7". This way may seem hard but at first but as you boost yourself up and lock off a nice hold comes into view.
I do agree that the face above the roof is not a "gimmie".In fact I think this route done this way is harder than "Upper D" which is sort of a bench mark 5.9 for Devils Lake.
I'm very partial to "Full Moon" as it is the only route in Swartling's Book that has a reference to my hometown.Great Name.....overlooked great route at Devils Lake.
Yup. I agree. I'd climbed it with the beta that Full Moon was the face off to the left of the big beefy crack (which is a 5.8?). And, I agree that it is harder this way than Upper D--definitely not as sustained as Upper D, but formidable nonetheless!
Pseudo Hawk's Nest
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