Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Brinton's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Berkeley T,TR 
Brinton's Corner T,TR 
Brinton's Crack T 
Brinton's Direct T,TR 
Cheap Thrills T,TR 
Chiaroscuro TR 
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 
Chicago T,TR 
Evanston Township T,TR 
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 
Golf Road TR 
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 
Rococo Variations T,TR 
Rubberman TR 
Sheep Thrills T,TR 
South Side T 
Stool Pigeon T 

Brinton's Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Pete Cleveland
Page Views: 3,020
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Mar 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Brinton's Direct.

Description 

Brinton's Direct is an excellent variation to the mega-classic Brinton's Crack. Rather than traversing right at the alcove (a la Brinton's Crack), Brinton's Direct forges a bold path straight up the face. These tenuous and airy moves lead directly (hence the name) to the top of the buttress.

On lead, the climb protects fairly well, but it's just run-out enough to give it that unique Devil's Lake feel. All in all, The Direct is a very worthwhile route on one of the best chunks of stone in the park.


Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Brinton's Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Better version of Jungle Dog on Brinton's Direct.
Better version of Jungle Dog on Brinton's Direct.
Ryan "Jungle Dog" Strong stays on the st...
Ryan "Jungle Dog" Strong stays on the st...
The start of Brinton's Direct  is to the left of t...
BETA PHOTO: The start of Brinton's Direct is to the left of t...

Comments on Brinton's Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 17, 2011
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 23, 2003

First Lead : Pete Cleveland
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 23, 2003

We always used to start a few more feet to the left of that dihedral at the very thin crack. This start is not quite visible behind the belayer's boulder in the photo. These thin cracks go directly up to the hand crack below the alcove. Brinton's Direct also makes for a great aid climb. ABQ.
By Maikey Lopera
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 3, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pro up to the alcove is the same as for Brintons crack. After the alcove the crack is thin and there are a few good placements. Use small nuts (BD # 4-5) and alliens for this section. I found particularly useful a orange allien (1.5) and a blue allien(0.375). The blue allien protects te crux after the undercling and sidepull holds. For belay there is a good stance just before topping out. The belay can be set up on uppermost the horizontal crack after the ledge. crack takes cams and nuts up to 0.5in.
By Maikey Lopera
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 3, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is an excellent lead to spice up after climbing Brintons crack.
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really enjoyed this route...was actually well protected. Classic D lake 5.8
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hey anonymous coward,
You said this route makes for a great aid lead. Well i tried it, aid solo, and did not see any way possible to make this route go. Right at the free climbing crux of the route, there was no possible way to place gear or hook for that matter. I was forced to hook right and exit Brinton's direct into the crack system for the regular route. I feel like i explored all options for continuing straight up, unless there is something i missed i don't think aiding this route is possible.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 15, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Strong, don't be a baby.
By Tradoholic
Sep 15, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Aiding is for FIBS!
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 15, 2011

Ryan, most big aid routes include some mandatory free moves. Using the rock for hand/foot holds in addition to standing in your etriers is also common. Just because you are aid climbing does not mean you can leave your free climbing skills at home!
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 15, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Anonymous sand bagged me!! Thanks Doug, i will be doing a big aid route Saturday. West Face of Leaning Tower. Hopefully its easier than Brintons direct! :)
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 15, 2011

Take a hook for down low, a couple of big pieces for up high, and grab the rock! I think if you can aid this route, you have the gear skills for the West Face ... you just need to add in your Grade V focus.
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Sep 17, 2011

Many of the pitches on the Nose have short sections of 5.6, 5.7 that are mandatory free or super ackward to aid i.e a flaring chimney. The difficulty comes in free climbing a 20ft 5.6 section in aid shoes and tons of gear.