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Mouse's Misery 

5.10a R

   

FA: Jim Erickson, 1966
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 790 page views

Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 22, 2003


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Late afternoon start up Mouse's Misery, with Paul ...


Description 

Mouse's Misery is a summertime favorite that you'll usually find occupied, perhaps because it is one of the easier 10s in the park. It's also a really fun route. Start the climb on the face directly below the arching roof 40 feet up, avoiding the crack to your right. About 20 feet up, use the finger crack to ascend to a horn just to the left of the arching roof. Climb up the crack above the horn through the crux of the route.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Mouse's Misery Slideshow Add Photo
Mouse's Misery (rt 77) begins on the face to the left of the crack on the far right side of the photo.

BETA PHOTO: Mouse's Misery (rt 77) begins on the face to the l...

The reason I'm all layered is it was Feb.  There was snow on the ground and it was 45F outside.  I'm working through the bottom part.

The reason I'm all layered is it was Feb. There w...

Done with the first part, now comes the 2nd half.  It was great.

Done with the first part, now comes the 2nd half. ...

I am working the right side of the route, taking a little rest and maping out the rest of it.  Tring to warm my hands up; it was cold that day.

I am working the right side of the route, taking a...

Leading Mouse's

Leading Mouse's

Protecting the crux

Protecting the crux

In the Crux

In the Crux

Finishing the crux, it's not nearly as steep as the photo makes it look, check the rope on Thoroughfare in the background for an indication of the lens tilt...

Finishing the crux, it's not nearly as steep as th...

Burt

Burt


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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 23, 2003

the first lead : Jim Erickson , 1966

By Colin Erskine
From: Madison, WI
Mar 29, 2006
rating: 5.10a

Mmmmm Mouses... Great classic route. Must get on it.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 11, 2006
rating: 5.10a R

From the "Climber and Hiker's Guide to Devil's Lake" (1970): "Comparable to other hard climbs at Devil's Lake, this route has mediocre protection. A mutilated bolt, bent and twisted out of shape, provides a graphic reminder to the aspirant of what might befall his body in the event of a fall."

I'd say Mouse's is a candidate for an R rating.

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Apr 24, 2007
rating: 5.10a R

I was hanging out at Two Pines this weekend (albeit briefly because of the 17-19 yr old jagoffs who were there being loud and obnoxious, thanks again pricks), and saw what I would consider to be something nearly as offensive as the teenage tools there.

Some dude spraying mightily about having been on Rubberman recently and how easy it was, even though he and his pals couldn't send it. Then this guy goes up on Mouse's Misery and uses the solution pockets of Mouse Tracks (still didn't look very smooth) and comes down and starts strutting around because in his mind he just hiked 5.10a. Turns out using those solution pockets (and yes they're oh so tempting) makes the route 5.8.

Seems to me if you're good enough to talk smack about one of the hardest routes at the Lake, you should be good enough (not to mention know enough about the place) to not use the 5.8 holds on the 5.10a. Just my opinion...

By Dmitriy Litvak
From: chicago, illinois
May 27, 2009

Felt easier than Congrats. Rating is a little on a soft side. Gear is there. Even the traverse is protectable. What's the definition of R?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 27, 2009
rating: 5.10a R

Wow Dmitriy, that's a first: a complaint about DL's soft ratings.

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
May 27, 2009
rating: 5.10a R

Dmitriy-

Any chance you used the solution pockets on the right that are a part of Mouse Tracks, and not "on" for Mouse's Misery?

By Mike Lohre
From: Sauk City, WI
Aug 11, 2009
rating: 5.10a

The first time I climbed this I used the pockets and would have called it an easy 10, after I found out the pockets were frowned upon I did it again thinking that made it a difficult 10a and characteristic of the lake.