Late afternoon start up Mouse's Misery, with Paul ...
Description
Mouse's Misery is a summertime favorite that you'll usually find occupied, perhaps because it is one of the easier 10s in the park. It's also a really fun route. Start the climb on the face directly below the arching roof 40 feet up, avoiding the crack to your right. About 20 feet up, use the finger crack to ascend to a horn just to the left of the arching roof. Climb up the crack above the horn through the crux of the route.
By Colin Erskine From: Madison, WI Mar 29, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Mmmmm Mouses... Great classic route. Must get on it.
By Jay Knower Administrator Oct 11, 2006 rating: 5.10a R
From the "Climber and Hiker's Guide to Devil's Lake" (1970): "Comparable to other hard climbs at Devil's Lake, this route has mediocre protection. A mutilated bolt, bent and twisted out of shape, provides a graphic reminder to the aspirant of what might befall his body in the event of a fall."
I was hanging out at Two Pines this weekend (albeit briefly because of the 17-19 yr old jagoffs who were there being loud and obnoxious, thanks again pricks), and saw what I would consider to be something nearly as offensive as the teenage tools there.
Some dude spraying mightily about having been on Rubberman recently and how easy it was, even though he and his pals couldn't send it. Then this guy goes up on Mouse's Misery and uses the solution pockets of Mouse Tracks (still didn't look very smooth) and comes down and starts strutting around because in his mind he just hiked 5.10a. Turns out using those solution pockets (and yes they're oh so tempting) makes the route 5.8.
Seems to me if you're good enough to talk smack about one of the hardest routes at the Lake, you should be good enough (not to mention know enough about the place) to not use the 5.8 holds on the 5.10a. Just my opinion...