Slightly more difficult than Acid Rock, Peyote Blues climbs the right side of the Gill's Nose arete. Starting on the huge block (as per Acid rock), climb left to the corner, slap the corner, and continue to the top. Unusual for a 5.12 at the Lake, Peyote has no crimps on it. Expect extreme body tension moves and large, generally bad holds.
Another good way to approach this route is to traverse in from Gill's Nose with your hands about the level of Peter's feet in the photo. Personally, I never had the guns left to finish the route after the Nose start. ABQ.
Thanks Steve. I was planning on leading this slab to chimney/dihedral between Gill's Crack and Rubberman and accidentally got a bit off route and ended up leading this thing. Quite a frightening surprise. Despite my full rack of big bros and #5 camalots all I could get in was a hook and maybe an rp or two, or some such sillyness like that, right at the start. Very scary, I think I need to get better at reading guidebooks. Have fun skiing in Eldo!
As I remember when Rich B. first did the route the left corner was off and if was 5.13, then using the left corner become the standard route, I think Eric Z, did it bare foot, he was getting bored climbing in shoes, doing a lot of the 5.12's and at least one 13 bare foot,
Gill's Buttress
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