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Moldy Buttress
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Tibia Crack 

Tibia Crack 

5.8

   

FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland, 1967
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 249 page views

Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 12, 2002


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Carey Kireyev at the crux of Tibia Crack. Photogra...


Description 

Tibia Crack is to the left of Cul-De-Sac (the inside corner below the coffee table-sized roof). Start out by climbing up the very shallow inside corner past some clumps of long grass. Once you get to the crack, use nice jams and some rightward laybacking to get up to a hanging v-shaped chimney (crux). Struggle for a while figuring out how to get through this akward chimney. Pass through the chimney and cruise to the top.


Protection 

Standard Rack, some runners to prevent rope drag.



Photos of Tibia Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Cul-De-Sac (115), Fibula Cracks (116), and Tibia Crack (117).

BETA PHOTO: Cul-De-Sac (115), Fibula Cracks (116), and Tibia C...

Carey Kireyev exiting the chimney (crux) of Tibia Crack. Photographer Mike Lopera

Carey Kireyev exiting the chimney (crux) of Tibia ...

Gina at the clumps of grass as the crack begins.

Gina at the clumps of grass as the crack begins.

Kelly and a good view of most of the route.

Kelly and a good view of most of the route.


Comments on Tibia Crack Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 6, 2002

first lead : Peter Cleveland,1967

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Aug 25, 2004

Sweet pictures Mike! Thanks for contributing.

By Dmitriy Litvak
From: chicago, illinois
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.8+

An honest 5.8+
Could climb like 5.9 on first lead.

By Andy Hansen
From: Milwaukee
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.8

I climbed this last week but I climbed it with a slight variation. At the chimney I went right around the roof and basically mantled over the roof and continued straight up. I can't compare the original route to this, as I didn't do it, but I'd have to say going right at the chimney is comparable to the original route. Thoughts?