Cheatah is a great, sustained climb on the long east face of Bill's Buttress. Start out by getting above a small 10" overhang using a few key foot placements (be prepared to stretch). Once above the overhang things get slightly easier using the finger crack. About 2/3's up there is a nearly blank face with a 10 foot crack. Use a combination of a layback and finger jams to conquer this section. From there to the top things get easier.
By Jay Knower Administrator Oct 30, 2002 rating: 5.10b
Cheatah is one of the best and safest 5.10 leads at Devil's Lake. Imagine Watermarks culminating with a short 5.10 section--both the moves and the pro are very similar. On Cheetah, don't botch the pro going through the initial roof (hint: place one or more cams up and left when you are standing on the starting pedestal). Once past this initial section, bomber gear brings you to the crux--this protects very well (you can effectively build a belay before you launch onto the crux layback). Here you actually have some air between your feet and the ground, unlike the cruxes on many leads of similar difficulty (i.e. Congrats). All in all, I am surprised this route does not see more lead traffic, as it represents a great opportunity to break into the 5.10 grade at the Lake.
Excellent route. I climbed it over the weekend on TR and really enjoyed it. This was my second ascent of the route, and I was able to ascend without any falls, so I went home happy. Get out and climb it!
The start "gets your attention" but the pro is decent and the moves seem easy once completed, the rest of the route is sheer joy, a mix of fingers, hands and lay aways with good pro, topped by a bit of a boulder problem (falls here are safe and spectacular). Probably the best real quartzite route at the lake.
By Steve Sangdahl From: eldo sprngs,co Mar 26, 2005 rating: 5.10a
i concur,,this is a killer 5.10a lead,great climbing and good gear and a bit longer than most dl routes
I only toproped it this past weekend. It was my first Devils Lake 5.10. I didnt find it all that difficult. I'm sure its much different on lead, but after the first fifteen feet it was pretty chilled out. I think I had more trouble on Birch Tree Crack than this one. Just my $.02.
Most likely you used whatever was in reach at the top. This would make the top feel pretty cruiser, however the grade given is for staying strictly in the seam at the top never straying too far right. Like so many DL routes there are a few holds that are off. I did recently lead this for the first time in a long time and just used whatever I wanted. It is probably a better route that way...
An excellent lead. Fairly sustained but perhaps due to my height I felt it was similar in difficulty to Congratulations.
By mattso From: grand canyon, AZ Feb 15, 2007 rating: 5.10a/b
Excellent route, I would listen to Jay beta's beta for gear and anyone could lead this. From what I remember congrats is much more of a crack climb, and there are many more face holds on cheeta.
Bill's Buttress
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