Sometime Crack 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | John Gill, solo, 1962 |
| Submitted By: | Jan Brown on Oct 28, 2002 |
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Jan Brown near the top of Sometime Crack.
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Description Sometime Crack is found on the monolith of rock that sticks out between the Pedestal Buttress and D'Arcy's Buttress. The climb faces southeast and is overhanging. Start out on a slabby piece of rock that is rated about 5.6. Climb the 10-15 feet to the top of this slab and you'll be standing on a ledge at the base of the crack. Climb the crack using jams (it's the only way in this case, so don't try to layback or you'll get spit off). At the top of the crack the route goes to the right on a less defined crack/ledge for about 10 feet to the top.
Protection Small to medium stoppers.
BETA PHOTO: Sometime Crack
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Lace it up! 1984
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Eb's and painter pants, classic. 1985
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Dan F starting the lead of Sometimes crack 5.10a i...
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Dan F placing pro on Sometimes crack. Photo Mike L...
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Rhoads first climb of the day is the classic
Some...
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Bob Horan following in Gill's footstep on Sometime...
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BH topping in out in Gill's footstep on Somtimes C...
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Reaching the top of the main crack, just before mo...
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Matt comes to terms with this pumpy number. Photo:...
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Ryan sending Sometimes Crack
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Ryan Pulling down on Sometime Crack.
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Finding the good stance on the steep crack.
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| Comments on Sometime Crack |
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 2, 2002
rating: 5.10a
| first lead by John Gill ,solo, 1962. |
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 4, 2002
| Thanks for the FA info Steve. That guy was amazing! Did he rope solo or free solo? |
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 4, 2002
rating: 5.10a
| that would be Free Solo. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 11, 2002
rating: 5.9+
| It's still a hard lead if you do it without SLCD's, particularly on a hot august day. In 1992... I have the distinct memory of trying to get a middle-sized Lowe Tricam (blue or purple) to stick at the crux, but it kept wiggling... eventually you give up and climb without it. SLCD's probably make it easier, but imagining a lead on just passive pro, or free-solo, really ballsy. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 17, 2002
rating: 5.9+
| All cams rely on friction, tricams do certainly as well. Chocks less so. It's a simple product of camming angle, coefficient of friction and wall angle, although that's virtually impossible to model for an individual placement... It's still the driving force of how that all works. A "steeper" cam will more likely slide or pop in most cases. |
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Feb 16, 2003
rating: 5.10a
| this could have been done as early as 1958-59 |
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 25, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| all the variations of this are excellant!of note is "Blow-Up"5.10b at the horizontal traverse left to the arete then up.this is out there.i remember following barney shaffers lead of the crack with the rope tied to my neck,is that jacked or what? STUPID!! |
By Colin Erskine
From: Madison, WI
Sep 19, 2005
| I tried this as the last climb of the day b/c i didnt feel pumped at all and this crack was very tough esp in the middle going up for the big hold that is about 3" taller than me. I dont really like hand jams that much but there are some crimps in the crack which i like better. The top was very hard, i could not get it after 10 trys. But i am excited to go back and give it another go. |
By Andy Bissell
Dec 1, 2006
| If your interested in some classic photo's of John Gill doing Acid Rock, Sometime Crack, Tombstone wall and the Flatiron, head to his website - www.johngill.net
Stated there, he indicates he did those routes/problems in 58/59 like Steve Sangdahl said. Amazing amount of history on his website too. Worth looking into. |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 14, 2008
| I have this memory from my earlier years of Dave Groth soloing this thing as a "warmdown". He came walking down around the corner with that classic grin of his, mumbling something about "high bouldering"... and left it at that for me to interpret. Nobody around, just he and I. Kinda timeless. JJ |
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