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Bill's Buttress
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Coatimundi Crack 

5.6

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 125 feet
Views: 860 page views

Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 2, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: Coatimundi Crack


Description 

Coatimundi Crack is a fine line up the southwest side of Bill's Buttress. Find the crack/inside corner behind the large Oak tree. Climb using the crack and face holds to the left. This climb contains plenty of "Thank God" holds that are found with each reach of your hand.

The Coatimundi, also known as the White-nosed Coati, is diurnal, living both on the ground and in the trees. This member of the racoon family is omnivorous, feeding on fruits, invertebrates, and other small animals. They feed by using their long noses, poking them under rocks and and into crevices, and using their long claws to dig holes or tear apart rotting logs.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Add Photo Photos of Coatimundi Crack
Andrew Baptist, the Barefoot Wonder, climbing Coatimundi Crack.

Andrew Baptist, the Barefoot Wonder, climbing Coat...

Franck Greaux leading Coetimundi

Franck Greaux leading Coetimundi


Add Comment Comments on Coatimundi Crack
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By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Jul 22, 2005

Lots of great gear, but don't hang out too long in the crux!

There are three alternate finishes: (5.6) Up the crack and left behind the pillar, (5.8) up the pillar, starting on its left side, and (5.7) cut right around the pillar and pull a lieback up into the beefy crack.

By Ian Schmit
Oct 10, 2006

A great climb. Some fixed Rock Empire cams before entering the bulge will give you a laugh. Clip em off and punch up 10 more feet, get some gear and go. The top dihedral has a slightly awkward top out move.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Oct 10, 2006

James Schroeder and I did an interesting variation to Coatimundi. Climb the crack/corner until it is possible to step left. Climb/walk a bit left to a nice belay ledge by a big tree. Belay here.

Next, climb right off the belay, and continue heading right and up. With a bit of routefinding and a couple 5.7ish moves, it is possible to traverse the entire buttress, and to top out near the top of of Cheetah. This is a long pitch.

We were tempted to name this pitch "The Traverse of the Gods," but that name was already taken.

By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Apr 16, 2007

There are now two fixed cams in the bulge!

This route can be sewn up with nuts and hexes.