Flake Route is the quintessential Devil's Lake climb--thin technical crimping on a vertical face.
Start up the center of "Campus Wall" directly underneath the alcove on Upper Diagonal. Climb straight up to the alcove, where you will find a fixed pin and a sneaky no-hands rest. Next, cast right and up, following small square cut crimpers up the center of the wall.
This climb is actually better protected than it looks if you place gear (.5 and .75 Camalots) on Upper-D, a few feet above the alcove.
Protection
On lead: .5 and .75 Camalots, small stoppers including brassies, small TCUs.
the first lead of the "FLAKE ROUTE" was by Steve Sangdahl 1979. I do not know who originally top-roped it. I named the route "Flakes!Flakes!" after the song by Frank Zappa (Sheik Yer Bouti /album.
Steve, There used to be a picture in the old Silverdale of someone on Flakes holding an oil can of Fosters while on lead (or was he aiding? I don't remember). Was that you? Do you know the pic I am talking about?
Jay,I remember leading flake route with a couple of beers clipped on to my rack, but idoubt if it was fosters .it was probably some hedious cheap swill such as BLATZ, etc. I also remember that the flake that we thought we were so clever tying off was easily kicked off at a later date.
Jay - the photo you asked about of flake route is of a guy I know as 'Cheeze'who moved to CO a few years back. He was aiding the route and Tom Colemann lowered him the fosters for the picture. Then as the story goes he started throwing snowballs at Cheeze.
Pedestal Buttress
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