Mountain Project: Climbing Devil's Lake

Gill climbed it first, but a foothold broke shortly thereafter. Locate the slab between Brinton's and Gill's Buttresses--the route climbs the prominent nose to the right of the slab. A classic Devil's Lake hard route.

At the crux, the original line goes left to a big flat jug and clocks in at 11b. However, the more direct finish (keeping your right hand on or near the corner) certainly requires an 11c effort.

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Add Photo Photos of Gill's Nose

Scott Stewert and Pete Cleveland showing their bes...	BETA PHOTO: Gill's Buttress	"Crazy" Tommy Deutchler attempting Gill's Nose sum...
Low on Gill's - Photo: Scott Van Den Heuvel	Slapping the arete on Gill's - Photo by: Scott Van...	Beginning the crux of Gill's - Photo: Scott Van De...
Almost through the crux - Photo: Scott Van Den Heu...	The first and only place to get in gear on Gill's ...	Starting up the Devil's Lake classic Gill's Nose. ...
Devils Lake. Crux of Gill's Nose. Paul Wagener bel...	Devils Lake. Gills Nose, the unprotected lower sec...	Devils lake. Topping out on Gills Nose. Photo Isaa...

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By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2002

Are you sure Gill did the FA of Gill's Nose. I think it was Roger Weigand, probably with Pete Cleveland. At least I recall him telling me he did.

I've been known to be wrong.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Apr 23, 2002

According to the Climber and Hiker's Guidebook (1970), Gill did it first, but a foothold broke. Maybe Roger Weigand did the first "foothold-less" ascent.

By Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
May 3, 2002

I thought you might like to see a few "In the Day" photo's. When I took these in '72-'73 I don't think the route had been repeated yet. We used to gather here in the afternoon to give a few tries and the pictures are of Pete Cleveland and Scott Steward discussing the moves and a picture of "Crazy" Tom Deutchler on a TR attempt.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 12, 2002

the proud first lead of GILL'S NOSE was by Tommy Deutchler

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 15, 2003

Is that a boeline on a coil?

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Apr 16, 2003

If you're talking about Tommy D's tie-in, I think that's called a swami belt.

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
Nov 26, 2006

Jay-

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the 11b "variation" the original line, and the 11c actually a more direct variation of that line?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Nov 28, 2006

James, I think you are right that the indirect finish is the original line and the direct, harder finish was added later.

Does anyone know if Tommy Deutchler led the direct variation or if he went out left to the jug?

Gill's Nose

5.11c

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