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Brinton's Buttress

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Berkeley 
Brinton's Corner 
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Brinton's Direct 
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Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) 
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Evanston Township Direct 
Golf Road 
Puff N' Grunt Chimney 
Rococo Variations 
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Stool Pigeon 

Brinton's Buttress 


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 16, 2002
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Unknown climber on the East Bluff, April 18, 2009....

Description 

Brinton's Buttress could be considered the crown jewel of the East Rampart. The buttress contains many high-quality climbs and is perhaps the most heavily visited formation on the East Bluff. Rubberman (5.13b), arguably the hardest climb at the Lake is located at the eastern end of the buttress, Brinton's Crack (5.6) is found on its southern face, and Berkeley (5.6) sits amongst other great climbs on the west face.


Getting There 

To find Brinton's Buttress hike up the CCC trail, turn left at The Monster and climb up rock steps through the talus field until you reach Pedestal Buttress. To access the top of Brinton's Buttress turn right and hike around the east end of the East Rampart wall. Turn back to the west and hike along the top of the cliff for 250 feet. To access the bottom of Brinton's Buttress turn left at Pedestal Buttress and hike on the climber's Trail for about 150 feet until you reach Brinton's Buttress.


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Brinton's Buttress:
Berkeley   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Puff N' Grunt Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Brinton's Crack   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad   
Rococo Variations   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Brinton's Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Chicago   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R     Trad, 60'   
Chiaroscuro   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     TR, 60'   
Brinton's Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     TR   
Evanston Township   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, TR, 50'   
Evanston Township Direct   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, TR, 50'   
Stool Pigeon   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R     Trad, 120'   
Cheap Thrills   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b R     Trad, TR   
Browse More Classics in Brinton's Buttress

Featured Route For Brinton's Buttress
Ryan on brintons. Probably the best climb at the lake?!

Brinton's Crack 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Brinton's Buttress
Brinton's is perhaps the most classic among the many classic moderates at Devil's Lake. The elegance of the line, the interesting moves, and the exposure are unmatched. Follow the main weakness on the left edge of the buttress. This will take you to a cramped alcove. From here, traverse to the right across good footholds, but miserable hand holds. Many consider this the crux. Protection for the traverse is "adequate." After the traverse, climb straight up a short jam crack (crux #2) to a b...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

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Brinton's Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Brinton's Buttress
Brinton's Buttress 2-1-09
BETA PHOTO: Brinton's Buttress 2-1-09
The classic, Brinton's.
The classic, Brinton's.
Hanging out at Hilton Ledge
Hanging out at Hilton Ledge
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