Mostly shady, in the woods of DLSP about 200 feet up from the lake and a lot of the West Bluff climbs are fairly close to it. Prob a 10-15min hike. The rock is fresh and virgin... no one has ever climbed it. We were the first. ( it's not in any of the guide books, so it is our rock).
Getting There
If you are standing at the top of the wall looking over the lake and Cleo is on your right. Go 500 feet to your left and hike down and it's somewhere around there. It has a metal garbage can near it.
You could try to talk to our group leader Steve... he will tell you if you are lucky.
First of all the rock is not yours, nor does it belong to your group of friends. If you think it does you really need to work on your attitude.
Second just because something isn't in the guidebook doesn't mean it hasn't been climbed before your lameness stumbled upon it. There are plenty of routes in the park that you have never climbed, read about, seen, heard of or could even find if you knew where they were for that matter. So I can see how you might think you've found something new, which in all honesty you might have, but I think realistically finding a truly new route near all the climbs on the West, let alone a whole boulder, is incredibly unlikely. If you're so desperate to be the first to do something and claim it as your own, then you need to go out west where you might have a chance at it. And please hurry because even FAs in the west are running low. Maybe Pakistan is the place for you, truth be told I don't care as long as you quit spraying on this site about your awesomeness. Largely because you aren't awesome, and you have no idea about the history of the lake. So either take some time to know what you're talking about or stop talking...
I don't want to get into some big flame fest here. I just think Colin needs to do a little more thought and research before he comes to this site and says stupid things. And yes calling it "our rock" because it isn't in the guidebook is a stupid thing to say. For that matter what is the purpose of posting something on this site and intentionally not giving directions to it. To me that just seems like pointless egotistical spray.
You're right though I don't know Colin, I'm sure he's a great guy.
It's just doing things like uploading seven pictures of his buddies and himself bouldering to the main Devil's Lake page doesn't make him seem that great.
What about reposting Necedah under Petenwell? That's also not the action of a great guy.
How about "Favorite thing from the boulders climbing comp?" thread? I don't even know what to say about that...
He's admitted his second climb was just over a year ago;
"I did Brinton's Crack as my 2nd climb on 9.17.2005 up at the lake, and it was just a smooth great climb besides all the bees that were around that day on the face b/c i guess it was their day to mate. Anyway i would suggest to try this as a warm up or for a beginner climber it was great."
Which is cool, we all were beginners once, that's not why I'm annoyed. It's just that he needs to check his facts a little before spraying here.
Ultimately it was the "our rock" mentality of this thing that really bugs me. I mean it's the west bluff near Cleo's needle does anyone believe this statement even remotely applies;
"The rock is fresh and virgin... no one has ever climbed it. We were the first. ( it's not in any of the guide books, so it is our rock)."
It's just all kinds of wrong, and I'm sorry for ripping him, but dude... Come on
I'm with you on this one James. It's understandable to have just started climbing and be really psyched, and it's understandable to have been climbing a long time and keep the record straight. Those pictures of the unnamed boulder don't belong on the front page. Also, why post pictures from a new boulder and then not explain how to get there? What's your motive if not basic self-flattery? I read collin's posts and was completely turned off. If I didn't already love the lake, and know how much great climbing is there, I would avoid the place with this neophyte spraying about the lichen covered boulder he now owns. I think James is well within his rights to put this guy in his place. If he's such a nice guy maybe he'll settle down and start learning from people who have been climbing their whole lives.
i'm kind of surprised at both of your comments, but yet i'm really not. everyone is bagging on colin for posting a couple of photos. are you guys serious? so what if he posted a couple pics in the wrong spot. it gives you no right to get down on him that much. as far as both of you getting mad that he didnt give directions. that really pisses me off. what about EB posting the chode boulder and not giving directions? you havent gone after him now have you?
i'm surprised about your comment kayte, saying that if you didnt know any better and saw his pics and his descriptions that you wouldnt come to the lake. thats bull. if you were in the area you know you would come to the lake. i've never passed up an area just because someone posted pics of bouldering or because of what someone said about some random boulder.
as far as the dumpster boulder goes. directions are a pain in the ass but here it goes. first you have to find the hogleg overhang boulders. from here head towards the north shore. after crossing the large talus field you'll enter a more wooded section. pass a few smaller boulders and about 10 minutes after leaving hogleg you should be at the dumpster boulder. it is at the base of another large talus field. the routes we got on needed much cleaning and a few holds broke while we were working the problems. we also had to move 2 very large dead trees out of the way before we could work the problems.
take this info for what it is. they might be fa's they might not be. who cares. it seems that the only people who actually care are ones that havent been to the boulder.
oh, and james, fa's out west arent running out. or even close to running out. for the 1.5 years i was out in the eastern sierra i was able to develop 4 new boulder fields, an entire granite cliff band up to 3 pitches and multiple sport routes. people just dont look hard enough to find the stuff. all of the boulder fields were within a half hour from bishop, and the granite is seen every year by over 500 thousand people. a 5 minute drive from mammoth lakes.
Here is what I was resonding to, and my comment was not bull. I was out in Utah a couple years ago, and went into a gear store looking for guide books. The guy behind the desk talked for 15 minutes about Mill Creek, and how it's the best climbing in America. So, being really psyched, I asked him how to get there. He then said, "well, I can't tell you how to get there. It's kind of a locals only spot. In-crowd, you know." That was the attitude I got from the post about this secret boulder, and I didn't agree with it.
And yes, this kind of attitude would cause me to avoid a climbing area. The lake doesn't have the best reputation as it is, though I have come to love the Lake.
I don't care that the guy posted the pictures in the wrong spot. It was the comments that irritated me, and I thought what James said made sense.
i understand your issue now kayte. i agree with you wholeheartedly. that type of attitude sucks. its one of the reasons i'm trying to iron out a bouldering guide to the lake. we'll see. its always good to have a duscussion though.
Thanks for your understanding Steve. I meant no offense to you or Collin. I guess that's something of a pet peeve of mine. I hope the bouldering guide turns out well.
You guys should spend less time beating up each other about lack of directions to boulder XYZ and get out there and discover them for yourself. That's the adventure. I spent most of the 80s looking for climbing areas before buying a guide book. By that time I used it to see what I had climbed. Go climb a rock!
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