Moving to the slopey crimp that sets up for the cr...
Description
Start using arete on right and small crimps on left. Make your way to the obvious horizontal break at half-height using razor crimp, sloper, and abysmal feet.
Continue from the break up easier moves to the top of the boulder if you are feeling brave or just traverse off left or right to ledges.
Large foot hold at bottom might be considered "off" by some...just have fun
Location
If you are facing the Venus rising boulder, continue on hiking trail for 50 feet and go right towards the lake past easy problems on the right. Angle around the backside of these boulders you pass and go down the hill hugging the cliff line on your right. You will pass Sex & Chocolate which is a blank arete/face climb/dyno. Perfect Medium is just past this on your right, around a corner.
Protection
Landing is very flat although boulders off to the side come in to play on topout
Very very good problem! That crimp is amazingly sharp though!!! I think this problem may actually be easier for people under 5'8". Getting that high foot was key and i think if i were a couple inches taller it would have been tough to do that.
we used the triangular foot up high. worked really well for us but i could see it being an issue for someone taller. felt a little more like V8 to me though.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Jun 24, 2009 rating: V8+
Steve, you will have to show me your foot beta. RV and I got on it this morning and figuring out the feet was tricky. Super fun problem though, that crimp isn't so bad if you tape up and don't think about it.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Jun 28, 2009 rating: V8+
This boulder problem is amazing! I thought it was over today, but PM put up a good fight, next time.
A small tree prevented this problem from being done correctly in the beginning. Alas, the tree was removed. The remover of the tree was injured, a few times, for not first offering up kinnikinnic to the Spirits of the Lake and Gitchi Manitou. Always follow local ethics. In this case, local Native American ethics. The same person burned a hive full of bees with gasoline near a boulder problem, and was promptly stung in the center of the forehead, leading to a neanderthal resemblance. I miss those days, and that guy was the greatest climbing sensei I ever met.
I remember that day well. I met that "hillbilly" on trail with his gas can and gloves taped to sleeves with duct tape so bees could not get in his shirt. Those were some great times!
By Paul Campbell From: Menomonee Falls, WI Sep 21, 2009
Anyone know the location / have pics of Manhattan (V1/V2)? Thought it was nearby Perfect Medium...
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