Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
North Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
An Eye For an Eye 
Remedy 
Unknown far left 
Walk The Line 

Remedy 

5.12-

   
1 person found this page useful

FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
Length: 60 feet
Views: 394 page views

Submitted By: Jeremy Schlick on Sep 16, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

This crag is on PRIVATE PROPERTY. MORE INFO >>>

DG working out the low crux.


Description 

A very nice line with two distinct cruxes. Start on scruffy rock to reach the first bolt, then out onto the main face. The first crux comes at the third bolt and is a mix of sidepulls and deadpoints. At the middle of the route soak up the rest as the top half is quite steep for WI standards. Climb jugs on the arete past two bolts. The third bolt on the arete is a hard clip and right at the begining of the second crux. Cranking on some small holds and divots will set you up for the throw. Jugs to the anchors from there.

When you are lowering off take a look at the rediculous botch job to the right. Four ugly glued holds were abandoned by their creator. Probably out of self loathing. One of these holds is close by at the crux, though I didn't use it on the FA. These holds are a good example of what not to do when route developing. There isn't even a line where they are at. It is just fucking stupid. Anyhoo, I ripped the one bolt that was over there, and whoever is responsible for this mess should be ashamed. Publicly and privately.


Location 

Middle of the north wall.


Protection 

Seven bolts to a two bolt chain anchor.



Photos of Remedy Slideshow Add Photo
Remedy.  Photo doesn't do it justice.  I will get some better ones soon.

Remedy. Photo doesn't do it justice. I will get ...

Side view of remedy

BETA PHOTO: Side view of remedy


Comments on Remedy Add Comment
Show which comments
By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b

Broke a large foot hold off on the top crux last fall, softball sized. Anyone been up there since? It'll make that last more a bit more difficult.

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
Aug 4, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b

To answer my own question it is way harder.