Any climbing done here is technically trespassing. I am posting it for history sakes and those undeterred by legal ramifications. Climb at your own legal risk.
The west face of the Fishing crag. Nearly all the...
Description
Castle rock south is a quaint little crag with a nice crystal clear trout stream running along side it. There are to date roughly a dozen bolted lines of varying quality and several good trad lines established. Most of the development came about 10-15 years ago, though some new lines have been added recently. When I went back this summer it didn't look like any of the routes had seen any action in a long time. It is definitely "out of the way". Despite the neglect a handful of these lines are very good and deserve more attention.
The rock is very similar to that of the Qual Wall at Governor Dodge. Great in some spots and total sugar in others. As always with this type of stone, give it at least a day after rain to dry out.
Getting There
First off this crag is on PRIVATE PROPERTY. Any climbing done here is technically trespassing. I am posting it for history sakes and those undeterred by legal ramifications. Climb at your own legal risk.
Castle rock south is located roughly equidistant and south of the towns of Boscobel and Muscoda on hwy. Q. It is marked in the gazetteer. The farmer that owns the oldschool campground across the stream will let you park on his property for a "donation". 2 or 3 bucks for a day. Camping is 8$ a night and they also sell fire wood. Watch out for the outhouses, bring your own TP and water. Obviously, don't tell them you are there to climb if you decide to go. Castle rock creek is very popular with trout fishing enthusiasts so this is a very normal and acceptable reason to be there. At the red gate on the west side of the bridge is a sign which gives info on the owner. His name is Jerome K. and lives just west of the crag with the stone barn by his house. Go ahead and drive up to his place and pay there. They are pretty welcoming to any extra income.
Once legitimately parked (do not park off hwy! There are signs posted) hike across the bridge and look for a well worn trail on the right. When this trail forks, take the lesser traveled right side and this will take you up to the NW corner of the crag right below the Rusty Ring Wall. There are areas to your left and to the right.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock South (Fishing Crag):
Head up the slab through some loose rock, some neat moves lead you into the small overhang on positive holds. After pulling over the small roof head out and left though the crux to gain a rest ledge...After clipping the next couple bolts you can either move out to the exposed arete (5.10/11), or head up direct(desperate feeling 5.12ish)....[more]Browse More Classics in WI
Photos of Castle Rock South (Fishing Crag) Slideshow
For a bit more beta on how to get there, the crag is 8 miles Northeast of Fennimore, WI on HWY Q. Me and my buddy might try to make a trip out there this season to clean and climb. Any new routes will be listed.
Jeremy,
Any advice on getting to the crag without being seen? Does the farmer own the property the crag is on??
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va May 9, 2008
I spoke with the farmer my first time out there and asked him who owned the bluff. He indicated to me that it was not private land anymore, but was public/city etc property. In the past we have parked on either side of the bridge below the crag and just walked right uphill to it. Several other cars were parked in the same area (for the fishing) and no one seemed to have a problem with it. Still, is a good idea to stay as low key as possible.....
I am still trying to get my buddy to go out there with me. He just sees it as another small sandstone crag, why drive so far he says..... I say because I want to check out all the rock in WI and there could be new lines to do. I think I will just get my fiance to go with me. She just started climbing and is just fine for a belay partner. Hopefully I will get out there soon.
If you find yourself living in Wisconsin, I agree with you that you should find every chunk of good rock to be had, do the routes, that you can, and learn from the ones you can't.
I suppose the fishin crag is a bit remote for some. Uh, hmmmm... I remember a time in Wisconsin where if there was new climbing (or old new climbing) that we went off in search of it with a freakin fervor. Especially if we had directions to the place!
Just thought I would put that in. The fishin crag has something for everyone, unless you are just to damned strong to be bothered with such nonsense.
I do hope that all of you that find it tantalizing will make the push and get down there. You have nothing to lose but a couple of days right? Of course, fall is wonderfull.
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