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Olesen Creek Wall
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Wiretap T 

Wiretap 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Damien McCombs, Brock wilson, and Jeremy Frimer
Season: NW Facing, Shady lower pitch
Page Views: 914
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Wire Tap from the start

Description 

A fun, four or five pitch route featuring a mix of moderate crack and slab climbing. All anchors are fixed.

P1 (10a) 35m - Up the long crack system ending up a short, fine splitter.

P2 (5.7) 15m - Can be linked with P1. Up a short 5.7 crack and then traverse right to a sweet belay atop a chopped tree.

P3 (5.9+/5.10-) 20m - The first ascenionists originally had placed 4 bolts of this pitch, but due to the availability of gear, removed all but one of them. The are certainly some hand size cams available, but take care placing them perfectly as the crack is flaring. I placed two #3 camalots on the way to the bolt.

P4 (5.8) 20m I linked this one with P3. Up a short corner and then past a handful of bolts.

P5 (5.9) 25m Low angle slab padding.

Topo is available (2010):
jeremyfrimer.com/Climbing_Routes.html

See this thread for information about the route, topo, and a discussion of the bolt removal.

squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?t=25>>>


Location 

Follow the directions on the Olesen Creek page. This route starts right in the middle of the main wall - aiming for a angling crack up high.


Protection 

Nuts and double cams from fingers to #3 camalot.



Photos of Wiretap Slideshow Add Photo
pitch 3, a 5.9 or 10a crack
pitch 3, a 5.9 or 10a crack
the end of pitch 4... easy but interesting face climbing
the end of pitch 4... easy but interesting face cl...
Comments on Wiretap Add Comment
Show which comments
By red armada
Jan 5, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

An excellent route. Jeremy Frimer is a hard-working and creative guy. How many people must have looked at the buttress from the Sea-to-Sky and pondered the potential - but got no further ...

By DCSwish23
From: Lander, WY
Aug 22, 2011

Using a 70m rope it was quite easy to link pitches and I would especially link the second since it's so short and easy.

By slim
Administrator
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

a great addition to the area that will, undoubtedly, become a popular classic. the first pitch (combine 1 and 2) is super fun, and the belay is probably the coolest belay i have ever had (or at least in the top handful). the following pitches up to the wiretap crack are fun, and surprisingly techy. wiretap crack is beautiful, the granite is sort of a polished gold that is similar to parts of tuolomne or yosemite. you wish it would go on for 240 feet....

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 8, 2013

Climbed it again by starting up Thriller on the Piller and finishing on Wire Crack. Thriller is an awesome pitch and provdes a "harder" start. Wire Crack was pretty short all things considered....