|436 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.10a [details]|
|FA: ||Damien McCombs, Brock wilson, and Jeremy Frimer|
|Season: ||NW Facing, Shady lower pitch|
|Submitted By: ||Andy Laakmann on Aug 1, 2010|
Wire Tap from the start
A fun, four or five pitch route featuring a mix of moderate crack and slab climbing. All anchors are fixed.
P1 (10a) 35m - Up the long crack system ending up a short, fine splitter.
P2 (5.7) 15m - Can be linked with P1. Up a short 5.7 crack and then traverse right to a sweet belay atop a chopped tree.
P3 (5.9+/5.10-) 20m - This pitch is not to be taken lightly. The first ascenionists originally had placed 4 bolts of this pitch, but due to the availability of gear, removed all but one of them. The are certainly some hand size cams available, but take care placing them perfectly as the crack is flaring. You'll be happy when you clip the lone bolt.
P4 (5.8) 20m I linked this one with P3. Up a short corner and then past a handful of bolts.
P5 (5.9) 25m Low angle slab padding.
Topo is available (2010):
See this thread for information about the route, topo, and a discussion of the bolt removal.
Follow the directions on the Olesen Creek page. This route starts right in the middle of the main wall - aiming for a angling crack up high.
Nuts and double cams from fingers to #3 camalot.
pitch 3, a 5.9 or 10a crack
the end of pitch 4... easy but interesting face cl...
|By red armada|
Jan 5, 2011
An excellent route. Jeremy Frimer is a hard-working and creative guy. How many people must have looked at the buttress from the Sea-to-Sky and pondered the potential - but got no further ...
Aug 22, 2011
Using a 70m rope it was quite easy to link pitches and I would especially link the second since it's so short and easy.