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This nice climb is located just left of Smoke Down near the right side of the rock. It goes up the obvious, right-facing dihedral past the roof. The climbing is thin and fairly sustained, with interesting stemming and footwork. The crux is moving up to a stance below the roof. From there, nice jugs can be found to pull over the roof, and it's much easier 5.7 or 5.8 crack and face climbing from there to the anchors. Rap from the anchors at Smoke Down.
The climb might warrant an "s" rating, but if the small nuts and RPs hold, then it should be considered reasonably safe. This is a very nice warmup for some of the other routes nearby.
RPs and small wired nuts, plus a few small to medium cams. I used a #3 RP at the crux, so a Screamer or two might be useful if you don't trust a fall on small pro.
Jul 5, 2008
It took tons of work to make this climb somewhat safe. Some very funky looking, difficult to obtain gear. 10- climbing, 11 gear. some fun moves.
|By Matt Toensing|
Jul 24, 2011
rating: 5.8 PG13
I climbed this route today, and it wasn't much fun. The climbing is very very dirty. We continued 3 pitches to the top of the Black Widow Slab and walked off in between Sleeping Beauty and Black Widow. The climbing is easy on the first pitch, but the gear does suck pretty bad and the moss is plentiful. Barely 1 star, more like 0.5 stars.
|By George Bracksieck|
Jul 27, 2012
I suspect that Matt's 2011 comment, above, refers to the climb that begins in the 5.8+ dihedral that Bands of Gold uses to start. I think the Bands of Gold dihedral is the start of Kor's "Right Side." (See comments under Black Widow Slab.) The route called "Wired" in this database begins farther right and is a 5.10-ish, right-leaning dihedral protected only by an occasional, funky, shallow, thin placement.
|By Steve Annecone|
Sep 16, 2012
Agree with George's comment above, Matt's description does NOT match the scrappy but clean (no moss) corner just left of Smoke Down.