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Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar 
Aspenleaf Dihedral 
Black Pearl 
Blows Against the Empire 
Cornered, straight up variation 
Do or Do Not 
Double Cracks 
Easy Off 
Empire Strikes Back, The 
Faith, Hope and Charity 
Fickle Finger of Eight 
Forbidden Planet 
Home Free 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) 
Just Another Girl's Climb 
Let's Jet 
Narrow Gate, The 
No Visible Means of Support 
Off The Cuff 
Pretender, The 
Right Escape 
Sacred and the Profane, The 
Shield, The 
Star Track 
Trouble And Strife 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) 
Whiskey Gala 
Young, Blonde, and Easy 
Your Basic Lieback 


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P. Ellinwood, D. Rice, 1977
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


Approach this climb and belay as described for Forbidden Planet, which is just to its right side.

Start up a right-facing dihedral to the left until it is possible to move up and to the right in a right-leaning crack. Place gear and move up and right, following the crack to its intersection with the left-facing dihedral (a 5.9- appropriately named "Dihedral") to your right. You will intersect the dihedral near a flake. Place good gear and step up and left until a good ledge is reached.

Go up and right to rap from the top of Forbidden Planet.


Small nuts and a few cams.

This climb is protected by some questionable small gear and is certainly not a great route to press your level on.

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By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 4, 2003

For leading, I'd suggest 1 ~red Alien sized, a #2 Camalot for the end, and then a few nuts/RPs no bigger than #4 stopper. We TR'ed in and fiddled with pro for a bit, everything was a little questionable.

By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
May 10, 2004

I concur with the "s" rating here, the pro is rather difficult to place and it's small. I used two #2 and two #3 RPs to protect fairly sustained moves, plus the gear mentioned above. The RPs might hold with Screamers, but better not to fall on the first half as that ledge is never too far below.Fun climb, maybe a bit harder than 9+, but probably not a good route for a 5.9 or 10- leader.

By chris w
Dec 5, 2005

This is a great climb in practicing with RPs, HB's offsets and small wires placements. Place a lot because if you fall swinging in the corner or decking is very likely. A [reasonable] lead for a solid 5.9 leader. Chris W.

By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

This is a dangerous climb. I'm 6'1'' an could barely reach over to the flake to place the number two before doing the very committing and thin crux. A shorter person probably wouldn't be able to protect the crux making this climb very serious or X rated. I thought I'd be able to get a nut in the crack, but the crack was just too thin. Any placement would have been more for mental benefit and probably wouldn't have protected a fall. This would be a very nice toprope however.