Wipeyur Buttress Rock Climbing
Looking east from the base of the Wipeyur Buttress...
This is a large formation by mile marker 10 on Rampart Range Road.
See the guidebook.... It has great approach info and a pretty good map. Near mile marker 10 on Rampart Range Road is a pullout with parking. Just back down the road (east?) across the street from mile marker 10 is a somewhat obvious trail. Follow cairns for a short hike around the south side of the formation. This trail leads to the slab below the south face.
Weather station 7.6 miles from here
21 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Wipeyur Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wipeyur Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wipeyur Buttress:
Mr. Hanky 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Tailwinds 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Turd Burglar 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Paper 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Holy Crap 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Wipeyur Buttress
Morning Thunder 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b CO
: South Platte
: ... : Wipeyur Buttress
'Morning Thunder' is a wonderfully continuous climb up a very nice panel of quality red granite. The main portion of the climb consists of sustained 5.11 and 5.12 climbing on fantastic incut edges and sidepulls. Begin by working up past three bolts that protect the approach gully to the base of the climb proper. Next head straight up clipping 8 bolts before glancing right after the eighth bolt to the anchors shared with the route to the immediate right (Chocolate Corner). The crux for most will ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Wipeyur Buttress Lower Southeast face, and the upp...
Looking East From Wipeyur Buttress towards The Hea...
I found the disparate descriptions in both newer g...
A river of aspens during September at the Wipeyur ...
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jul 16, 2012
This high quality crag is a great one to visit almost any time of day, all summer. It gets afternoon shade, but also has a nice pine tree to hide out from the occasional hail storm. Wipeyur has 2 tiers of climbing, with the lower tiers offering mostly technical 5.10 climbing, and the climbs above, harder 12s. There are some jems in the 5.9-10 range on the upper tier however. On the right butt is a series of 5.12s, which are easily accessible from the top of a pair of stellar, varied, and long 5.10s (Paper and Plastic).
Views of pikes peak and the surrounding wilderness abound from this crag, and the approach is safe for dogs and kids, save one 8 foot section requiring a helping hand. The aspen grove behind the crag offers much adventuring for the little ones, and trails to nearby formations.
There is now a small pullout with enough room for about 3 cars directly at the Trailhead. There is also a white and brown "P" sign.