Wipeyur Buttress Rock Climbing
A river of aspens during September at the Wipeyur ...
This is a large formation by mile marker 10 on Rampart Range Road.
See the guidebook.... It has great approach info and a pretty good map. Near mile marker 10 on Rampart Range Road is a pullout with parking. Just back down the road (east?) across the street from mile marker 10 is a somewhat obvious trail. Follow cairns for a short hike around the south side of the formation. This trail leads to the slab below the south face.
Weather station 7.6 miles from here
21 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Wipeyur Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wipeyur Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wipeyur Buttress:
Mr. Hanky 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Tailwinds 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Turd Burglar 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Paper 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Holy Crap 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Wipeyur Buttress
Holy Crap 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b CO
: South Platte
: ... : Wipeyur Buttress
Holy Crap is probably the centerpiece route at Wipeyur Buttress. The climbing is steep, athletic, technical, and sustained. Begin by figuring out a good plan for the belayer. The belay area is steep with multiple small ledges, and there are tradeoffs in terms of seeing the climber, reducing rope drag, and avoiding rockfall.The route starts at the bottom of the corner and shoots straight right on steep rock with good holds for 3 or 4 bolts (this section can be a little wet during rainy weather...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Looking east from the base of the Wipeyur Buttress...
Wipeyur Buttress Lower Southeast face, and the upp...
I found the disparate descriptions in both newer g...
Looking East From Wipeyur Buttress towards The Hea...
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jul 16, 2012
This high quality crag is a great one to visit almost any time of day, all summer. It gets afternoon shade, but also has a nice pine tree to hide out from the occasional hail storm. Wipeyur has 2 tiers of climbing, with the lower tiers offering mostly technical 5.10 climbing, and the climbs above, harder 12s. There are some jems in the 5.9-10 range on the upper tier however. On the right butt is a series of 5.12s, which are easily accessible from the top of a pair of stellar, varied, and long 5.10s (Paper and Plastic).
Views of pikes peak and the surrounding wilderness abound from this crag, and the approach is safe for dogs and kids, save one 8 foot section requiring a helping hand. The aspen grove behind the crag offers much adventuring for the little ones, and trails to nearby formations.
There is now a small pullout with enough room for about 3 cars directly at the Trailhead. There is also a white and brown "P" sign.