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Wipeyur Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Bunny S 
Chocolate Corner S 
F.U.D.G.E. S 
Gut Bomb S 
Heinous Anus  S 
Holy Crap S 
Junk in the Trunk S 
Morning Thunder S 
Mr. Hanky S 
Paper S 
Plastic S 
Racing Stripes S 
Silent But Deadly S 
Snapping Station S 
Tailwinds S 
Throne Room, The S 
Tramp Stamp S 
Turd Burglar S 
Tusk S 
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 
Unsorted Routes:

Wipeyur Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Adam B on May 27, 2011
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Looking east from the base of the Wipeyur Buttress...

Reduced Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a large formation by mile marker 10 on Rampart Range Road.

Getting There 

See the guidebook.... It has great approach info and a pretty good map. Near mile marker 10 on Rampart Range Road is a pullout with parking. Just back down the road (east?) across the street from mile marker 10 is a somewhat obvious trail. Follow cairns for a short hike around the south side of the formation. This trail leads to the slab below the south face.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.1 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wipeyur Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wipeyur Buttress:
Tailwinds   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mr. Hanky   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Turd Burglar   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Upperdeck-n-spackle   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Paper   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Chocolate Corner   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Tramp Stamp   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Tusk   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Heinous Anus    5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Snapping Station   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Holy Crap   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wipeyur Buttress

Featured Route For Wipeyur Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview topo of the left side of the Wipeyur Butt...

Morning Thunder 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  CO : South Platte : ... : Wipeyur Buttress
'Morning Thunder' is a wonderfully continuous climb up a very nice panel of quality red granite. The main portion of the climb consists of sustained 5.11 and 5.12 climbing on fantastic incut edges and sidepulls. Begin by working up past three bolts that protect the approach gully to the base of the climb proper. Next head straight up clipping 8 bolts before glancing right after the eighth bolt to the anchors shared with the route to the immediate right (Chocolate Corner). The crux for most will ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Wipeyur Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wipeyur Buttress Lower Southeast face, and the upp...
Wipeyur Buttress Lower Southeast face, and the upp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking East From Wipeyur Buttress towards The Hea...
Looking East From Wipeyur Buttress towards The Hea...
Rock Climbing Photo: I found the disparate descriptions in both newer g...
I found the disparate descriptions in both newer g...
Rock Climbing Photo: A river of aspens during September at the Wipeyur ...
A river of aspens during September at the Wipeyur ...

Comments on Wipeyur Buttress Add Comment
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By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jul 16, 2012
This high quality crag is a great one to visit almost any time of day, all summer. It gets afternoon shade, but also has a nice pine tree to hide out from the occasional hail storm. Wipeyur has 2 tiers of climbing, with the lower tiers offering mostly technical 5.10 climbing, and the climbs above, harder 12s. There are some jems in the 5.9-10 range on the upper tier however. On the right butt is a series of 5.12s, which are easily accessible from the top of a pair of stellar, varied, and long 5.10s (Paper and Plastic).

Views of pikes peak and the surrounding wilderness abound from this crag, and the approach is safe for dogs and kids, save one 8 foot section requiring a helping hand. The aspen grove behind the crag offers much adventuring for the little ones, and trails to nearby formations.

There is now a small pullout with enough room for about 3 cars directly at the Trailhead. There is also a white and brown "P" sign.

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