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Wipeyur Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Bunny S 
Can You Spare a Square? (18) S 
Chocolate Corner S 
F.U.D.G.E. S 
Gut Bomb S 
Heinous Anus  S 
Holy Crap S 
Junk in the Trunk S 
Morning Thunder S 
Mr. Hanky S 
Paper S 
Plastic S 
Racing Stripes S 
Silent But Deadly S 
Snapping Station S 
Tailwinds S 
Throne Room, The S 
Tramp Stamp S 
Turd Burglar S 
Tusk S 
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 
Unsorted Routes:

Wipeyur Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.25879, -105.10917 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,862
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Adam B on May 27, 2011
This Afternoon

71° | 47°

65° | 45°

67° | 46°

68° | 45°

67° | 37°

58° | 33°
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A river of aspens during September at the Wipeyur ...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a large formation by mile marker 10 on Rampart Range Road.

Getting There 

See the guidebook.... It has great approach info and a pretty good map. Near mile marker 10 on Rampart Range Road is a pullout with parking. Just back down the road (east?) across the street from mile marker 10 is a somewhat obvious trail. Follow cairns for a short hike around the south side of the formation. This trail leads to the slab below the south face.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.6 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wipeyur Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wipeyur Buttress:
Mr. Hanky   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Tailwinds   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Turd Burglar   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Paper   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Can You Spare a Square? (18)   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Snapping Station   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Holy Crap   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Morning Thunder   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wipeyur Buttress

Featured Route For Wipeyur Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: The start.

Holy Crap 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CO : South Platte : ... : Wipeyur Buttress
Holy Crap is probably the centerpiece route at Wipeyur Buttress. The climbing is steep, athletic, technical, and sustained. Begin by figuring out a good plan for the belayer. The belay area is steep with multiple small ledges, and there are tradeoffs in terms of seeing the climber, reducing rope drag, and avoiding rockfall.The route starts at the bottom of the corner and shoots straight right on steep rock with good holds for 3 or 4 bolts (this section can be a little wet during rainy weather...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Wipeyur Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking east from the base of the Wipeyur Buttress...
Looking east from the base of the Wipeyur Buttress...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wipeyur Buttress Lower Southeast face, and the upp...
Wipeyur Buttress Lower Southeast face, and the upp...
Rock Climbing Photo: I found the disparate descriptions in both newer g...
I found the disparate descriptions in both newer g...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking East From Wipeyur Buttress towards The Hea...
Looking East From Wipeyur Buttress towards The Hea...

Comments on Wipeyur Buttress Add Comment
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By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jul 16, 2012
This high quality crag is a great one to visit almost any time of day, all summer. It gets afternoon shade, but also has a nice pine tree to hide out from the occasional hail storm. Wipeyur has 2 tiers of climbing, with the lower tiers offering mostly technical 5.10 climbing, and the climbs above, harder 12s. There are some jems in the 5.9-10 range on the upper tier however. On the right butt is a series of 5.12s, which are easily accessible from the top of a pair of stellar, varied, and long 5.10s (Paper and Plastic).

Views of pikes peak and the surrounding wilderness abound from this crag, and the approach is safe for dogs and kids, save one 8 foot section requiring a helping hand. The aspen grove behind the crag offers much adventuring for the little ones, and trails to nearby formations.

There is now a small pullout with enough room for about 3 cars directly at the Trailhead. There is also a white and brown "P" sign.

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