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Wipeyur Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Bunny S 
Chocolate Corner S 
F.U.D.G.E. S 
Gut Bomb S 
Heinous Anus  S 
Holy Crap S 
Junk in the Trunk S 
Morning Thunder S 
Mr. Hanky S 
Paper S 
Plastic S 
Silent But Deadly S 
Snapping Station S 
Tailwinds S 
Turd Burglar S 
Tusk S 
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 

Wipeyur Buttress  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Adam B on May 27, 2011
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Looking east from the base of the Wipeyur Buttress...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a large formation by mile marker 10 on Rampart Range Road.

Getting There 

See the guidebook.... It has great approach info and a pretty good map. Near mile marker 10 on Rampart Range Road is a pullout with parking. Just back down the road (east?) across the street from mile marker 10 is a somewhat obvious trail. Follow cairns for a short hike around the south side of the formation. This trail leads to the slab below the south face.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.1 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',5],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wipeyur Buttress:
Plastic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Tailwinds   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Junk in the Trunk   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mr. Hanky   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Turd Burglar   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Upperdeck-n-spackle   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Paper   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Chocolate Corner   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Heinous Anus    5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Tusk   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Snapping Station   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Holy Crap   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Wipeyur Buttress

Featured Route For Wipeyur Buttress
Kristin Knudson on Paper (5.10c). Photo by Josť Ortega.

Paper 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CO : South Platte : ... : Wipeyur Buttress
Probably the best 5.10 at the crag. Find a bolted round buttress next to an off-width, jagged crack. Climb small crystals with help from the right part of the formation. Place a long draw below the roof and pull over. Head _left_ for Paper (right for Plastic) Continue up some slanted terrain, and finish on some small features to the finish. Lower over the overhanging terrain....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Wipeyur Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Wipeyur Buttress Lower Southeast face, and the upper wall.  In this shot, there are 16-20 routes.  The bottom face(with the climber) has 5 and the upper contains the rest.  Getting to the upper wall climbs is a bit of a challenge, so beware.  A guidebook is a must for the area as there are so many routes. Climber - Paula, Junk In The Trunk, 5.9.
Wipeyur Buttress Lower Southeast face, and the upp...
Looking East From Wipeyur Buttress towards The Headstone (upper right),  Chicken Head Ranch (middle), and The Jungle (lower right in the trees).  Awesome day fall day at the crag. Unknown climbers.
Looking East From Wipeyur Buttress towards The Hea...
I found the disparate descriptions in both newer guidebooks to be a little confusing.  So park before or after mile marker 10, doesn't really matter.  The trailhead is very close to the marker, across the road.  This pic shows what you are looking for.
I found the disparate descriptions in both newer g...
A river of aspens during September at the Wipeyur Buttress.
A river of aspens during September at the Wipeyur ...

Comments on Wipeyur Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jul 16, 2012
This high quality crag is a great one to visit almost any time of day, all summer. It gets afternoon shade, but also has a nice pine tree to hide out from the occasional hail storm. Wipeyur has 2 tiers of climbing, with the lower tiers offering mostly technical 5.10 climbing, and the climbs above, harder 12s. There are some jems in the 5.9-10 range on the upper tier however. On the right butt is a series of 5.12s, which are easily accessible from the top of a pair of stellar, varied, and long 5.10s (Paper and Plastic).

Views of pikes peak and the surrounding wilderness abound from this crag, and the approach is safe for dogs and kids, save one 8 foot section requiring a helping hand. The aspen grove behind the crag offers much adventuring for the little ones, and trails to nearby formations.

There is now a small pullout with enough room for about 3 cars directly at the Trailhead. There is also a white and brown "P" sign.