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The Castle
Routes Sorted
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5.9 crack climb T 
Betterman T 
Camel Walk, The T 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 
Dalke - Jennings T 
Dewitt Route T 
Dungeon, The T 
Great Chimney Route T 
Guillotine T 
Hardgumbi's Lament T 
Nose, The T 
Rapunzel T 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 
Southeast Gully T 
Throne Room T 
Uncle Wiggly T 
Wiggins Route T 
Winterlude T 
You Can't Chop This T 

Winterlude 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: VFA: Bill Duncan, Paul Midkiff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 393
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Jun 11, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Climbs on the Garrison.
1) Hardgumbi's Lament
2) W...

Description 

This is climb #2 in the photo, and starts up the gully a short ways. Beautiful jams in excellent rock lead to a steep face where things get thin and you encounter a bulge about 100' up (crux). Small cams/medium wires protect this well. Continue up to the ledge. The 2nd pitch is negligible.

Perhaps this crack and others on the Garrison were climbed decades ago,
but I thought I'd put it on the map as a VFA (virtual FA). Climbed in
the late 80's/early 90's. If anyone has conflicting information, please let me know.


Location 

Quite a few folks I think were referring to this formation on the lower
right side of the Castle as the Garrison, so I'll continue to use that designation.


Protection 

Standard Platte rack. Small cams assist protecting the crux.



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