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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arcy Farcy T 
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 
Bluebeard T 
Bocomaru T 
Buccaneer, The T 
Captain Hook T 
Double Exposure T 
Double Exposure Direct T 
Frustration T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Hernia - Direct Finish T 
Hernia, The T 
Insomnia T 
Pass Time T 
Pirate, The T 
Swashbuckler T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Walk the Plank T 
Winter Solstice T 

Winter Solstice 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Hamilton Collins & Greg Rzonka, December 21, 1985
Page Views: 1,524
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006

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The knob and last decent holds can be seen a few f...

Description 

Thin and continuous for much of it's length this challenging face route is best done when conditions are cold and crisp. Although runout in spots it's not dangerously so and probably doesn't deserve an "R" rating like the current guidebook suggests.

Climb a thin flake system, passing a black knob, and work up left and then back right to reach the 3rd bolt and the start of the difficulties. Move slightly right and up on tiny edges/friction (crux) to reach the 4th bolt and then continue up gradually more featured face to the top.

Although originally rated 5.11a this climb has gotten more difficut as it gets more polished and some of the tiny and crucial holds have broken off.

Location 

Immediately left of Arcy Farcy.

Protection 

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (100' rap)


Photos of Winter Solstice Slideshow Add Photo
A mantle or high step and a long reach here gets you to the last comfortable stance before the upper 60' of smooth rock.
A mantle or high step and a long reach here gets y...
You can see the first 3 bolts of the climb in this photo with the crux being between 2nd and 3rd bolts.  Still very hard, thin climbing past 3rd bolt and then finally easing a bit for a LONG way to the fourth bolt which is out of the photo.
You can see the first 3 bolts of the climb in this...
Since there is nothing for hands and feet to speak of, high steps seem to allow more easily for upward movement.  More leg muscle is required to get your weight on the foot with little for hands to pull with.
Since there is nothing for hands and feet to speak...

Comments on Winter Solstice Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R

Truly frantic smearing, stop and fall off.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 6, 2006

After being told by a nice local climber that this route was 10d, I was shocked and amazed at the lack of holds, size of holds, and difficulty of this rather smooth face. 10d, 10d, man am I out of shape! Am I blind? 10d, 10d, I could never, ever lead this. After a wrong hand mantle and desperate hard move to good holds at the first bolt, the climb continues up with almost nothing for hands and feet. At many places you wonder why the boots are sticking and why you are not on the rope. It is a LONG way from 3rd to 4th bolt and although much easier climbing (maybe 10c) than the crux between 2nd and 3rd bolt, this would be an incredibly bold lead. Good job first ascent party and anyone with a successful lead! I was relieved to find out that the 10d referred to was probably Arcy Farcy just to the right.
By tom donnelly
Jul 30, 2007

Originally the route was 11a, back when I lead it.
Many people toprope it now that there are convenience anchors at the top.
This results in a lot of feeble attempts with lots of slipping by people who are not up for the lead.
Which results in much faster polishing of the holds than would have happened without the convenience anchors, so now it's quite a bit harder.
Which results in even more people not wanting to lead it.
Me for instance.
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Feb 2, 2010

I was fortunate to get one of the earlier ascents of this route. As I recall I found it sketchiest near the top due to a lot of loose flakes. Good climbing though. 11a at that time.
By Choncho
Jul 9, 2010

This thing is pretty tough. Did it in the 80s, 90s and again a few years ago. Could be approaching 11d.
By Indira Lower
Aug 1, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I loved this climb. Some of the tiny, paper thin flakes to hold onto with only your finger prints break off, so check them before relying on them :).The crux is at the third bolt. Since you'd be clipped in at the bolt line, it makes the move a bit less intimidating. It's listed as "trad", but it's a sport climb...humm
By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 8, 2011

This route is most definitely not a sport climb.
By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Feb 28, 2013

Finally sacked up and led this in December--should have waited for the Winter Solstice but....

I agree with the previous poster--bolts DO NOT equal sport. However, I found the route perfectly protected.

It is possible to get off route near the 4th bolt by venturing too far towards Arcy Farcy. The traverse back in is truly THIN. Not recommended.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2013

Wickedly sustained.