Winter Heat 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Paul Crawford, Jay Smith, Rich Harrison, Paul Van Betten 1983 |
| Submitted By: | Chad Kuhlman on Mar 23, 2007 |
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Climber nearing the scoop crux of Winter Heat.
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Description Fantastic route up beautiful chocolate colored rock. Follow the thin seam up the center of the wall to a large scoop. Place your pro fast to avoid burning out. Super fun and well worth a visit. Good protection for the entire length of the route, but place it when you can.
Location The center most seam/crack on the Winter Heat Wall.
Protection Standard rack to 1". Especially wires. Also cams to 4" for the pockets down low to feel super comfortable.
Anne high stepping on winter heat. Fantastic rout...
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Me contemplating the next few moves which I found ...
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By meo
Apr 29, 2007
| The middle of the route is a bit sparse on good pro. Where it starts to get thin could be better protected with set of ballnutz or you need a good set of B--ls |
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sep 18, 2009
| Found plenty of soild gear from good stances.... A few small nuts, a few med nuts, and a grey alien |
By Boodge Nomchompski
Oct 18, 2009
| Don't bother protecting the first 20 feet of 5.8 huecos. The first crux (5.11a) is thin and protects well with 2 brass nuts down low and small/medium nuts. The upper crux (11b) is very well protected with small/med cam and small/med nuts. It looks a lot worse from the ground than it is. |
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c
| This is a great trad testpiece. One of the better single pitch routes I have done in Red Rocks. |
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.11b
| I found a perfect #2 camalot in a pocket early on. The climbing around this cam is easy (compared to the rest of the route). However I thought this cam was key to avoid zippering the small nuts placed on the first 3/4 of this route.
josh |
By W.S.
From: Montana
Apr 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b
| I got maybe four small nuts and two small cams in on this route. The gear wasn't horrible, just small. Beautiful climbing up good rock. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.11
| Amazing piece of rock. A couple #2s are nice to have- especially the first one in the hueco. Ballnutz also come in handy along the way, as well as patience and a good head for intricate gear placements. |
By Killing In The Name Of
Jan 16, 2012
| I got two nuts...one for each of ya!
Regardless of any minutia of protection, this isn't a dangerous route and it's for sure pretty classic. Climb and enjoy. |
By Nate Farr
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 19, 2013
rating: 5.11
| I was really bummed with the guidebook recommendation of gear to 1.25". I definitely wanted a #1 at about halfway, instead of the nest of rp's I ended up placing. All-in-all the gear is good its just fiddly and sporadic. You can place it above your head anywhere the climbing approaches "hard."
When I do this again I will only take a bunch of stoppers from rp's to about bd #9 and a single #1.
This wall could probably benefit from some anchor replacement in the future. I'm not sure if that is original hardware up there or not, but it could be better. Especially given the apparent popularity of the wall. |
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