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December Wall
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Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure 
Unsorted Routes:

Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe Huggins? Gene Ellis, George Watson, late '80s? Craig Lightburn did this in the mid to late '70s, with Mason Frichette?
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Apr 17, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The second and third pitches (in poor light)

Description 

P1. I believe the first pitch was originally climbed from the bottom of the dihedral, followed rather poor rock until the twin cracks could be reached, and then belayed at the first big ledge. Others have also used the crack in the back of the dihedral that Telegraph Road is bolted on, traversed right to the twin cracks, and climbed up to the ledge, 5.8.

I climbed the route using the first pitch of Telegraph Road and belayed from the anchors. This adds a fun 10+ pitch to the climb and avoids the belay on the rock strewn ledge. You just need to assure the first piece is directionally good.

P2. The second pitch is a beauty. Lieback and undercling the dihedral with slick feet. The crux is where you pull out left under a small roof. Belay at a large ledge. Watch the loose rocks around the belay. TCUs and Aliens make this a lot less strenuous. .10c

P3. The third pitch follows the dihedral until it is possible to escape right before you reach the rotten rock at the roof. Small wires protect the top very well. Once you escape to the arete, follow easy rock to the top and belay at or near the top of the ridge.

Descent: to escape the ridge you can do a hand traverse to the bushes to the left, or get into the gully by downclimbing the ridge to the right, and then going up the gully (not fun). Rappel off Life after James' anchors (30 feet to the left, on a small ledge past the cairn. A protection bolt will get you to the anchors), or walk off to the west.

With Telegraph Road's first pitch, this is a 2 star route. Otherwise, it is a 1 star.


Location 

This route climbs the prominent, left-facing dihedral system on the tallest section of December Wall.


Protection 

Standard rack. TCUs or equivalent are helpful on pitch 2.



Photos of Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure Slideshow Add Photo
On the second pitch after the crux.
On the second pitch after the crux.
From the base. The original start is off to the right.
BETA PHOTO: From the base. The original start is off to the ri...
A closer view, on the first pitch crack.
A closer view, on the first pitch crack.
On the first pitch.
On the first pitch.
On the third pitch.
On the third pitch.
Comments on Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 21, 2004

The left start follows a dirty crack in the dihedral that you can't see on the photo, and goes at 5.8. The 5.11- indicated follows Telegraph's bolts on the arete 10 feet toward the camera.

By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Nov 16, 2006

28Oct06
Cleaned the first pitch.
Towards the end of the climb after the hand crack we went left about 15 feet then through the overhangs, there was pro and climbing was 5.9ish
--Ross

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2009

P1: Scrambly, junky start, one star. Handcrack to ledge, then crack and jug climbing to a ledge, three stars.

P2: Amazing corner to roof jamming and laybacking, classic! Too bad it ends too soon.

By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 7, 2010

FA: Gene Ellis, George Watson, late '80s, though I would not deny that someone may have done this earlier.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 8, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I'm pretty sure this is quite a bit older. If I remember correctly, Craig Lightburn did this in the mid to late '70s, most likely w/ Mason Frichette.

By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 8, 2010

I have long suspected that this line and several others had previously been climbed. They are obvious lines on the crag, well protected and somewhat pleasant. Unfortunately, for whatever reason, the possible first ascentionists chose not to make the information concerning these routes generally available to the local climbing community, leading to the confusion. I suppose until this information becomes solidly known, that we can leave the FAs indeterminate and use the names given them by my partners and myself. It's not of tremendous consequence to me, though it may be to others.

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jul 8, 2010

Slim, Craig Lightburn! there's a name from the past. He and I went to Golden High School together. I knew he was a climber but he was already pushing the hard stuff when I was leading 5.7s in the early to mid '70s. Do you have any idea of where he is nowadays?

Yeah George, it's quite possible they didn't make their FA known. I knew lots of guys from that time that put up FAs in the Platte and Clear Creek that climbed FAs for the thrill of the unknown and the challenge of route finding on an asthetic line....imagine that? :-)

By slim
Administrator
Jul 8, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Ydpl8s, he is in Colorado Springs these days. I climbed quite a bit with him several years ago- great guy, great climber, great biker, great fly-fisherman, ... great at everything. He was pulling down really hard.

I moved, and then he moved out to Grand Junction for a while, so we haven't seen each other for a while. He moved to the Springs a year or two ago. Hopefully I will hang out with him again before too long.

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jul 8, 2010

Thanks Slim, yeah he was always one of those quiet guys that didn't talk about it, but just did everything he did better than anybody else.

By Rob DeZonia
Sep 6, 2011

Before some guys went a little bolt happy on this nice cliff, I remember climbing this as one of my first 10s. This place felt adventurous and exciting. The crag is watered down now with bolt lines, but Winter Dreams still remains and excellent little adventure. Expect a large intimidating roof with great feet and positive hands. The real crux is an awesome steep section at the top of the route.