The namesake route for the guidebook. Most obvious route in Hyalite and the only one visible from Bozeman. It only comes "in" a few times a decade. This is the description from when I climbed it, clearly the grade changes from day to day and year to year.
Pitch 1: (5.9 WI3+ 110') Head up the ice blobs for about 70' then traverse left to the anchor.
Pitch 2: (M8 or A0 110') Follow the bolts (12-13) through two overhangs to the belay (bolts) located left of the lowest icicle.
Pitch 3: (5.7 WI5-6+ 110') Traverse up and right off the belay, clip the fixed pecker and enjoy the awesome formations of ice! Belay on the right side of the second tier of ice (bolts).
Pitch 4: (WI5-5+ 110') Climb up the last tier of ice to a tree.
Either rap the route (2 ropes) or walk off left and do some down climbing.
Approach from the Grotto Falls parking lot. Head up the main trail past the Amphitheater, continue up a hill to a junction that heads straight or down and right to Grotto Falls. Go straight past the sign for 10-20 ft and hang a left. continue up the shoulder left of Winter Dance until level with the first pitch. Traverse in (4th class) to the base of the route.
Nuts, specter, single rack of cams, 10-12 screws. All belays are fixed.
Dec 3, 2013
rating: WI5-6 M7-8
Can rap with one 70 meter rope.