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This is a wonderful dihedral route on the top tier of the Rat Rock slabs. Climb a short ramp to where the thin crack begins and with a few delicate moves you'll reach a rest where the crack begins to widen to the hand sized finish. This route can easily be seen from the dam and can be accessed by either climbing a route on the lower tier (ie: "Rat Ledge") or walking up the ramp between the tiers from the east side of the reservoir.
Small aliens for the start to 3" for the finish and anchors. The route goes from fingers to hands. There is no fixed anchor, however, you can smear down the slab to use the 2 bolt anchor at the top of "Oasis of Eden" and "The Way it Should Be".
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Nov 23, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Lots of nice sustained climbing on this for such a short route. Fiddly pro. Loop a boulder at the top for a belay and walk off west is fast and easy.