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BETA PHOTO: Start of Winky Woo on Left. Southwest Chimney on ...
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A classic Flatiron route, yet much different in nature than the standard Flatiron slab fare.
Possibly best approached after climbing the East Face and doing the rappel descent. Scramble down along the south face of the Third Flatiron for a couple hundred feet or so. Winky Woo climbs the steep and juggy wall to the left of the obvious Southwest Chimney.
Begin just to the left of the SW Chimney, and angle up and left across the face, then straight up to the top. Basically follow the easiest way. If leading, you will need to work out a (semi-hanging?) belay somewhere. If soloing, while this route is no harder than most east face slab routes, it is vertical and very exposed, thus a somewhat different game than one generally expects from a solo Flatiron jaunt. The easiest way isn't totally obvious, and some of the moves can be a little awkward and leaning.
High on the face it is possible to step left into a chimney/gully, but the route stays on the face. At the top of the face, either continue up the ramp system and through Fatman's Frenzy to join the regular rappel route, or head down to the SW Chimney and rap (2 ropes to ground) or downclimb that.
This is possibly a difficult climb to protect due to the nature of the rock. A couple #4 Friend sized cams and extra longer runners for slinging horns and threading holes could work in addition to the usual.
Wander anywhere on this face...super fun.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 2, 2001
I agree with the information about approach and general route description. Route finding isn't too difficult if you follow one rule: when in doubt, traverse left.
For protection I would not bother with large cams. Long slings and Stoppers are about all I've used to protect this climb. You can get creative stopper placements in small holes by threading the tail of the Stopper through the hole.
Also, I would give this route the highest quality rating. It's steep, juggy, solid, and super fun!
Mark Oveson (my name's not available on the list yet)
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2001
Three stars! If you have a 60m rope, you can do this climb in one pitch all the way to the ramp (Slip Slide Ledge). So no intermediate belay is needed.
|By Kevin Currigan|
Nov 24, 2002
This is a great way to get to the summit also. Once up Slip Side Ledge, 5.4, through Fatman's Frenzy you are standing in the South Bowl. Head down the giant chimney a few feet then step north onto the great east face. Its about 50' to the top from there-sans pro. Done this way I would give this climb three stars. I would give Winky Woo alone 3 stars...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 12, 2004
I think there are only two Flatiron 5.4's that are this steep. I have always found this easy to protect with no runout so I don't know why it gets R and S ratings. It just requires natural pro, that's all. You'll never climb it the same twice as it it wide with many variations. Can be used to get to other tests, topropes, or routes you needed to come back to finish.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 19, 2004
We did a 3-star variation to the start of this climb the other day. It starts about 20-30ft to the left of the SW chimney, somewhere between the "Super" and standerd starts. There is about 30ft of fun ~5.8 climbing on a bucket covered bulging wall.
This pitch is about 185-190ft long. I found a #2 and #3 Camalots were useful for the belay. Which is OK, since large cam's are not needed on the pitch. This climb protects well with large nuts for the cracks between boiler plates.
Aug 16, 2010
I did Winky Woo on August 15th with my long time climbing buddy Jeff, who was visiting from flat Chicago. I found this route a bit challenging to locate, so see the photo I uploaded of the view from the start of the climb.
It really is 5.4, I would say, but a bit intimidating because of the steepness and the question of finding enough gear. In the end, I placed a lot of nuts that seemed pretty secure, and didn't feel like I had a paucity of protection.
Routefinding is ambiguous on this climb, but there are holds everywhere, so don't worry too much. If you have a 60 meter rope, I am quite sure you can make it all the way to the top of the face to belay. Instead, I went left very near the top into an obvious huge belay area that turned out to be only 15 or 20 feet below the true top. If you get to what looks like a great place to belay, and find a 15 foot high chimney at the back of this huge, secure ledge, then go back onto the face and climb up to the top of the face. You will be at the same place you would reach by climbing the chimney, but you'll be happier to have climbed the bucketed face. With a 60 meter rope you could do it.
For the descent, we scrambled right (east) for about 40 meters to a huge eye bolt on the top of Southwest Chimney. With a single 60 meter rope we rappelled all the way to the ground. No downclimbing needed. With anything shorter you will have to downclimb some of the Southwest Chimney.
A great climb that I would like to do again.