Winky and Waxman Go Bolting 

Just went up and did it again today. Be aware that the last left handhold, before the ledge is suspect. It seemed solid enough to me, but it is definitely loose.

Feels like an 11a - because it is so short. Any idea if there is a rating on the v scale?

I heard that the "hold" is gone, but no more difficult.

led it last night ... the "hold" is still there and feels the same as it did 2 years ago ... from what i remember

that 'hold' is still there and will probably be there for a good while...

just cause it is shaky doesn't mean everyone has to get all puckered...

hell, you might as well use it as a high left foot too!

I would have a hard time calling that a 5.11 I would say the rating is around a 10c. Better rated as a boulder problem at V1. However rated though it is a enjoyable little problem to get on.

Bolt #3 is a bit loose on this guy.

Didn't seem too tough to me, third bolt is a spinner though, and I used that loose rock for a hold and it seemed fine.

Lost it at the top my first try, but mantled the second try and made it up. That mantle at the top makes it all worth it, great climb.

For those who think this is rated harder than it is, there are a bunch of chalk marks in the crack off to the right of the bolt line. If you use either the crack or the rock face to the right this climb is more like an 8.

If you do the sit start and climb the bolt line (as if you were leading) and stay out of the crack it definitely feels like 5.11 moves. Sure its short, but if you had a sustained 5.9 with this section, it would definitely be rated an 11.

I have a hard time calling this more than a 10c. dont get me wrong though FUN FUN FUN. skip the first bolt. If you fall above it your gonna hit the deck anyway.

Fun short climb. Worth a run up. Not quite 11b, in my opinion it is a highball V2. Regardless, it is a fun little route.

We usually link the Winky and Waxman line with the newer (meaning not in the guide)5.10'ish long line next to it. Anyone know if this has a name?

OOOOOOH BOY. As of 10/24/08 the cool block that's loose is dead. Makes for a bit harder of a topout but geeze... that hold gave that route character. I'm bummed.

yeah, I couldn't believe the block is gone, the hole where it was is a big hold now, so it didn't seem any harder.

This is a pretty reasonable highball boulder problem, especially since you can get it wired on a rope first. Watch out for the back-breaking boulder at the bottom!

A scrimage heros' climb

V3 boulder problem if you sit start

V4 if you gaston L hand instead of going to the jug.
Sit start on routes: so hot right now...

Referring to the '92 Ruckman guide, this route had a single bolt when it was first established, and the beta called for a hand full of RP's to protect. I'd suggest that one needs to try the ground-up onsight with this in mind to grasp the meaning of the original .11b rating. The "second" bolt was the original. As it stands today (easy protection), and in comparison to the other 11's nearby, I think the route is more in the .10c range, especially once one has the beta sussed. For a grade comparison, head over to the S-Curves and do "Black Monday", because that to me is benchmark for a BCC .11a. Just getting past the first bolt on that route has harder moves than anything on "Winky & Waxman Go Bolting"...that is, if you do not do the route as it was first done...

There isn't a v3, let alone v4, move on this little line. Even on sit start (& not using the right corner)nothing is much harder then v1. Pretty fun to finish up the day though.

Time to update my previous comment: Sit start eliminate on routes: so hot right now...
You should go add a sit start to Condor in Ferguson. At least 6 people would downgrade it and/or shit a brick.

There's absolutely a V2/V3 move on this route (you just have to make sure not to go right). Very contrived but enjoyable. Essentially just a highball.