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Third Buttress
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Ah Maw 
Feathers 
FM 
Left Wing 
Mojo Rising 
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No Mo' Jo' 
Standard Left Start 
Standard Route 
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West Face (variation) 
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Wingtip 

Wingtip 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chip Chace and Steve Levin, 1979
Season: Faces W/SW
Page Views: 964
Submitted By: Tony B on May 31, 2001
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  • Description 

    This route ascends a thin overhanging and left-leaning dihedral up and left of the start of "Left Wing."

    Go up the gully as for ""Left Wing," but continue up for about 25 feet more. Place some gear and get your belayer secured in the corner before starting, as a fall getting into the dihedral (hard) could otherwise send you both for a ride. Start climbing up and to the right to enter the dihedral above the overhanging section. Place thin gear as you then ascend the dihedral on some 5.10 moves past gear from "tiny" to 1.5-inch. Finish from the top of the big flake, as for "Left Wing.

    This pitch is definitely easier than the like-graded ""Left Wing," but you should be solid at the grade or you will get pumped trying to place gear.


    Protection 

    A standard rack with extra small gear. The route is difficult to protect well, but can take gear. RPs and ballnuts could be placed from strenuous stances to more or less sew it up. Still, do not be at your limit here.

    You can TR this pitch from the top of ""Left Wing."



    Comments on Wingtip Add Comment
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    By Sergio P
    From: Idaho Springs, CO
    Nov 1, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    It is short and sustained. Not worth going out of your way for, but if you are craging around elephant butterss it worth doing. You can protect it with small cams and small nuts.

    By Tommey-James
    From: Boulder,Colorado
    Aug 5, 2011
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13

    This is a fun route with good liebacking. It is a bit thin off the start but a #6 BD and a blue TCU will keep you from having a bad day. Aside from that, I would take gear to green Camalot possible a red Camalot, but I didn't use it.

    By slim
    Administrator
    Aug 29, 2011
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

    Every bit of PG-13 on this one. You have to commit to the route before you get gear, and even then you have to fight to get really good gear for it.

    By tsuji
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 8, 2012

    Climbed this today and did not have a #6 BD like Tommy recommended. It would have been nice to have right off the deck!