|Redrock and vicinity
This line starts on a thin, right foot on the face and two wide, inward hands. This first move and half is the crux and is probably where the name comes from. Once you attain the large jugs midway up, the gritty of it is over with. Follow the jugs to the single bolt 5 feet from the TR anchors.
This line is to the right of Roll the Bones. Start on the block right of the tree and left of the left-leaning, ugly rail.
This line does certainly go on gear. Use c3s and rock pro around the crux. I am not really sure why the single bolt was placed. The top half is more of a runout.
|By burlap submariner|
Jul 18, 2012
totally fucking awesome, fully engaging climb. The author is correct in that the gear is very small and thin but very good, the runout to the top is all there but unprotected.
|By James Chase|
Apr 7, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R
I think the bolt might have been meant as a right variation to Roll the Bones since there is a fairly easy traverse and would protect the end of the traverse over. It's like 3 feet from the top anchors so it's hard to understand why it would have been placed there otherwise since the top half of this route is like a 5.2 and it is REALLY close to the end. Though, I have no idea why you would do this right variation since the end is super easy. Pretty odd.
I really liked the opening moves till you get to the jugs. We used some fun stemming to start it up. Dropped a top rope since the routes we wanted to do were busy and even though it is super short, I think it is worth doing.
Also there is a nice BD helmet lodged behind the tree/rock near this route as of today. Thought about taking it since it is going to get ruined sitting out there and is tucked away in a spot not frequently climbed. So if it is still there for the next climber, someone should give it a home. Would make a better brain bucket than no brain bucket.