|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 30'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]|
|Submitted By:||Chris McNeil on May 5, 2012|
|Comments on Wings of Steal||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By burlap submariner
Jul 18, 2012
|totally fucking awesome, fully engaging climb. The author is correct in that the gear is very small and thin but very good, the runout to the top is all there but unprotected.|
By James Chase
Apr 7, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
I think the bolt might have been meant as a right variation to Roll the Bones since there is a fairly easy traverse and would protect the end of the traverse over. It's like 3 feet from the top anchors so it's hard to understand why it would have been placed there otherwise since the top half of this route is like a 5.2 and it is REALLY close to the end. Though, I have no idea why you would do this right variation since the end is super easy. Pretty odd.
I really liked the opening moves till you get to the jugs. We used some fun stemming to start it up. Dropped a top rope since the routes we wanted to do were busy and even though it is super short, I think it is worth doing.
Also there is a nice BD helmet lodged behind the tree/rock near this route as of today. Thought about taking it since it is going to get ruined sitting out there and is tucked away in a spot not frequently climbed. So if it is still there for the next climber, someone should give it a home. Would make a better brain bucket than no brain bucket.