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moving up towards the roof traverse
Start on near vertical rock, head up and left to a vertical crack, pull a couple of awkward moves to a good stance below the roof, place some good gear, and get moving on the rather steep roof. Exit to the left before the end of the roof!
Other advice from the guide book...
Start: At left most side of cliff on a bushy pedestal.
Pitch 1: Move up the face and angle left to where a roof and angling crack system meet. Follow the corner up and right until you can monkey-bar onto the face using huge jugs. Continue up the face to a natural belay near the top of the cliff.
Descent: Move right to rappel from the two bolts atop "Eros Direct". 80 feet.
Information from "Select Climbs in North Carolina". Yon Lambert and Harrison Shull. 2002.
At the steep crux of Winged Mongrel. Great jugs!
Sep 4, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
IMHO, this climb is not PG13 at all- assuming you can hang around to place it, there is great gear throughout. While due to the pumpy nature of the climb it is probably good to be very solid at the grade before leading it, it is quite safe overall. Amazing climb!
By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Mar 3, 2014
Not PG13, at all. It is very safe, G rated. Just a little intimidating, standing under that roof . . .
By Jackson vermeulen
Apr 6, 2015
Definitely G-rated. Although a lot of the jugs are pretty sharp and could definitely leave you with a few cuts if you're not careful.