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 ADVANCED
Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The S 
Brown Palace, The S 
Convolution S 
Deceiver S 
Disneyland T,S 
Dynamite S 
Fool Me Twice T,S 
Frisky Lady S 
Just in Time S 
Lie Detector S 
Mary's Jugs S 
Mary's Tricks S 
Maternal Damnation S 
New Direction T 
Out Of Time S 
Proud Mary S 
Stuck In Time S 
There's Something About Mary T,S 
Violet Blue S 
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Wingardium Leviosa 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: Guy H. on Aug 16, 2010

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Description 

This varied route is one of the better pitches at The Bust. A light rack is required for the runouts between the bolted sections.

Start up towards the obvious, thin crack system behind the large pin tree. Stem, palm, and thin crack moves (crux) lead to a jam crack. A finger size cam and a #2 protect this section. Head left on slab climbing to another 5.10 crux at a bulge. A #1 can protect the runout between bolts. There is a 20 foot runout to the anchors that can be protected by a difficult to see TCU placement.

You can just barely lower off with a 60m, so be careful. A 70m might be a good idea.

Location 

This is the rightmost route on the main buttress. There is a new ~5.12 to the left, and this route starts behind a large pine tree.

Protection 

7-8 bolts, set of Aliens or small cams, #1/#2 Camalots.


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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Aug 16, 2010

It is possible to rap down to the anchors on the adjacent new ~5.12 route for a quick TR. On TR, I thought the bolt placements were in poor positions for leading. Some of them didn't protect the hard moves well or were painfully out of reach from good stances.
By Lew Strong
From: Loveland/Vail, CO
Aug 19, 2011

The difficult to see TCU placement noted above is a green Black Diamond C3. It was in the vertical seam when my feet were about 8 feet above the last bolt. It is past the harder stuff, but a fall above would be severe.